The purpose of this blog is to record my preparation for a more complete traverse of Te Ara Tapu Hemi (The way of S James, Camino de Santiago).
Continuing my description of my first, brief, Camino (Te Ara, The Way) from Sarria to Santiago de Compostella. My last blog was more than two years ago. Since then a lot has happened in my preparation.
My last blog recorded my first day (Monday, 28 June 2010) and left off as I wondered whether I would continue. I was suffering an injury (now diagnosed as variocose veins) and was clearly not as fit as I thought. But if the youngsters could continue then so would I.
Tuesday (day 2) saw the steep and long (or so it seemed) climb up from Portomarin and the slog (for someone not so fit). My four young Americans passed by very quickly. Eventually to Palais de Rei to the municipal alberque: a large dorm of seven carrels withy two bunks each or 28 people altogether. Surprisingly I was one of the first in and selected a lower bunk. I went out to see about a phone card so I could ring my wife at home (no luck) and on coming back found three young women had taken the other three. One spoke English and said they were from Barcelona: I was invited to a bar with them (to watch the Football World Cup game involving Spain that night) but. as my hearing aid does not work well in confined noisy places, I declined. I had been on the road for more than a week and needed to wash my smalls and hung them up near the window.
Wednesday morning I was first awake well before sunrise: I collected all my washing (or so I thought) and moved out. This day was very long for me: it was 30 km altogether and I did the first 17 km to Melide in relatively good time. I was still learning though and had not drunk enough water and the last 13 km to Arzua took forever. But a good new albergue. But shock horror when unpacking: my only other pair of underpants was not there - were they still at Palais de Rei?
Good time of Thursday to O Pedrouzo (only 20km) and another new albergue. I was starting to get use to the pace now and the varicose veins were less noticeable. In the afternoon I encountered a place to book accomodation in Santiago and I took advantage of this. Good sleep that night.
Friday (day 5, 2 July 2010): up early and quickly underway - only 20 km to go. The weather was brilliant for walking - overcast and a light drizzle - so good progress. The way finding was easier and the markers were well supplemented by other walkers. Having got around the airport I came across a cafe; I needed a reward and having got my order was contemplating what I was doing. In came a man and woman together: I had seen each of the several times on the first two days but not since. As soon as the woman saw me she took a plastic shopping bag out of her pack and, rolling the top down, came across to show me what was inside: the smalls I had washed and left at Palais de Rei!!! Continued on to Monte de Gozo (hill of joy) where one can first see the spires of Santiago Cathedral - the end of the way - and the site of a lovely little Chapel of S Mark. I was looking forward to sitting down with 5 km to go and wondered why so many walkers were hanging around outside in the rain. I went inside and found a bishop talking to a group of older people who were dressed as if they had driven here - no walkers amongst them. Fortunately they were soon finished and I got my respite out of the rain. After that it was almost a race to Santiago and the pilgrim bureau to register my modest achievment, get my compostellana and find my accomodation.
In all I stayed four night in Santiago. The accomodation was excellent for a pilgrim: inside the ancient area and close to the cathedral. It was a sadness to leave. But my next adventures beckoned.
