day 35 – draft
Saturday, 7 October 2017
Viloria de Rioja to San Juan Ortega
32 km today - 264 km on Camino Frances - 970 km from Le Puy - 520 to Santiago
Again woke about 07h, the clothes that were washed last night are quite dry, lovely breakfast, packed and gone by 08h.
Belorado is about 8 km on and arrive just before 10h. On the outskirts is a church with the common bells hanging at the west end, along with a magnificent birds nest on top closest to the road: and the head of what looks like a bird peeping over the top. Remembering in some places storks nest in such places, the better to see the signal to make a baby delivery, I am determined to get a photo of such a prescient creature. Going up a side road (and getting stares from the local residents) I take a shot, but the head does not move. It is in fact a piece of the stonework: no babies expected at this time then! Coffee and orange juice stop and on my way.
At Tosantos I stop to photo an interesting structure set into the hill side on the other side of a stream. It looks like a dwelling with a large paved area in front. While doing this a father and son on bikes arrive. They have English so we chat for a while and take photos of one another. Some time later I remember an undertaking I made to my son in London and, finding a shelter/bust stop I sit down to complete this. What would the early pilgrims have thought of all this!!
Just after 13h I arrive at Villafranca Montes de Oca, having completed around 20km. Part of me says stop here tonight, but another part says get to Burgos (40 km from here) on Sunday. I have a long stop, talk to a young American woman from Florida (originally Ohio), say both offices outside the closed church and at about 15h head up the hill. Villafranca is at about 950 m above sea level (asl) and the high point of the hill is 1150 m asl and about 4 km away. The average rate of climb is not significant – 50 metres up for every 1 km along – piece of cake! The reality is different: quite steep sections followed by much less steep bits, but I make good time to the height.
Now, please let me take you back to Azofra two days ago. I walked around that village and above the entrance to the parish church were about 12 names of those who, as I understood the words above, died for their country fighting communism between 1936 and 1939. At the height of Montes de Oca, 4 km from Villafranca, is an obelisk remembering some 300 who were shot (in this locality?) in the first three months of the Civil War starting in 1936. As I understand it they did for their country fighting fascism. I take some comfort that I live in a country that has known political extremes from time to time, but avoided widespread violence against one another.
After a time for reflection and other stuff I move off with 8 km to San Juan Ortega: this is a very gentle 100 m descent. But it is tiring. Clearly the pines on either side are felled for use as I often see large stacks waiting for the next stage. I reach the albergue at 16h15. Mass started at 18h and dinner is at 18h30. Dinner is quite grand. The Portugese from Viloria de Rioja had arrived just before and comes to sit next to me: I am beside myself with joy as he buys a bottle of wine and refuses my contribution. He video calls his wife (living in Britain) and brings me into the conversation. I am dog tired.
And so to bed.
10 October 2017
day 34 – draft Friday, 6 October 2017 Azofra to Viloria de Rioja
day 34 – draft
Friday, 6 October 2017
Azofra to Viloria de Rioja
31 km today - 236 km on Camino Frances - 969 km from Le Puy - 551 to Santiago
Woke about 07h, packed and gone by 08h. Sunrise is about 15 minutes later but I cant find a setting on my camera that shows the colours of the sky. After 10 km I pass through the outskirts of Ciruena. This looks like a dormitory suburb. I get the impression several housing developments were been started some time ago and not progressed. Wikipedia say the town has a population of 131 and I have passed several of them at about 10h.
Six km on is Santo Domingo de Calzada – Saint Dominic of the Causeway. I stop here for breakfast and lunch and to inspect the Cathedral and very significant museum on the north side. On later reflection I believe the museum occupies the (former) monastic rooms around a cloister. If so, the cloister is unusually situated on the north side and would be shaded by the cathedral proper. Inside the cathedral there is reinstatement work for the stonework of the choir underway. The chancel has an interesting arrangement. There is a U shaped bench seat furthest from the people, with the bishop’s seat given prominence in the middle. This bench seat is on a wooden platform that extends towards the people and on which is the altar, presiders seat and an ambo for readings and sermons. Were I to sit in the bishop’s chair and looked slightly left of centre I would see an elevated, glass (?) fronted cage containing a rooster and hen. The rooster regularly crows. To learn more please visit https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominic_de_la_Calzada and scroll down.
On leaving Santo Domingo I cross the River Oja by means of a very substantial bridge. The river is very wide and I can imagine after rain this river would be treacherous. But today it is quite dry. It is about here that Saint Dominic around 1150 had first a causeway, and later a bridge, built for the needs of pilgrims to Santiago.
A further 8 km on is Granon. The cafe owner shows me a photo of another kilt wearing pilgrim. Having said the afternoon office and having consumed one coffee (cafe americano, por favor), two orange juice drinks and one banana I am off.
After yet another stage of 8 km I reach the village of Viloria de Rioja. The sign boards for the alberque Acieto have an appeal. I head for it and am warmly greeted by the owner: it is late in the day and she is busy preparing the communal meal. As it has been a hot day, all the clothing worn is sodden. I put it to one side and have a lie down. When dinner is called there are six pilgrims, the owner and her partner sitting down. Going around the table a male Hollander, a male German, a couple from Bolivia, a male from Portugal (or Brazil), the Italian owner and her partner, and a female from Brazil. We are quite an animated lot. I arrange for my clothes to be machine washed (cold cycle) and they mostly dry quite quickly.
And so to bed.
Friday, 6 October 2017
Azofra to Viloria de Rioja
31 km today - 236 km on Camino Frances - 969 km from Le Puy - 551 to Santiago
Woke about 07h, packed and gone by 08h. Sunrise is about 15 minutes later but I cant find a setting on my camera that shows the colours of the sky. After 10 km I pass through the outskirts of Ciruena. This looks like a dormitory suburb. I get the impression several housing developments were been started some time ago and not progressed. Wikipedia say the town has a population of 131 and I have passed several of them at about 10h.
Six km on is Santo Domingo de Calzada – Saint Dominic of the Causeway. I stop here for breakfast and lunch and to inspect the Cathedral and very significant museum on the north side. On later reflection I believe the museum occupies the (former) monastic rooms around a cloister. If so, the cloister is unusually situated on the north side and would be shaded by the cathedral proper. Inside the cathedral there is reinstatement work for the stonework of the choir underway. The chancel has an interesting arrangement. There is a U shaped bench seat furthest from the people, with the bishop’s seat given prominence in the middle. This bench seat is on a wooden platform that extends towards the people and on which is the altar, presiders seat and an ambo for readings and sermons. Were I to sit in the bishop’s chair and looked slightly left of centre I would see an elevated, glass (?) fronted cage containing a rooster and hen. The rooster regularly crows. To learn more please visit https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominic_de_la_Calzada and scroll down.
On leaving Santo Domingo I cross the River Oja by means of a very substantial bridge. The river is very wide and I can imagine after rain this river would be treacherous. But today it is quite dry. It is about here that Saint Dominic around 1150 had first a causeway, and later a bridge, built for the needs of pilgrims to Santiago.
A further 8 km on is Granon. The cafe owner shows me a photo of another kilt wearing pilgrim. Having said the afternoon office and having consumed one coffee (cafe americano, por favor), two orange juice drinks and one banana I am off.
After yet another stage of 8 km I reach the village of Viloria de Rioja. The sign boards for the alberque Acieto have an appeal. I head for it and am warmly greeted by the owner: it is late in the day and she is busy preparing the communal meal. As it has been a hot day, all the clothing worn is sodden. I put it to one side and have a lie down. When dinner is called there are six pilgrims, the owner and her partner sitting down. Going around the table a male Hollander, a male German, a couple from Bolivia, a male from Portugal (or Brazil), the Italian owner and her partner, and a female from Brazil. We are quite an animated lot. I arrange for my clothes to be machine washed (cold cycle) and they mostly dry quite quickly.
And so to bed.
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