day 47 – draft
Sunday, 22 October 2017
Cacabelos (Kakabayloss says a local) to La Faba
32 km today - 521 km on Camino Frances – 1,356 km from Le Puy - 163 to Santiago
Breakfast is at 08h and I am away by 08h30. With sun rise at 09h it is light. There are some ups and downs but nothing strenuous for the 8 km to Villafranca del Bierzo where I have two Zumo de Naranja Natural, por favor (fresh orange juice, please) and a loo stop.
I have looked at my guide and map. Here I have a choice of going up a hill and steeply down the other side (and a further 2 km) or follow the road. I choose the latter and how to get back to the N-VI (formerly the N-120) and away I go. All is well until I start a left turn towards the highway when two old biddies on my left start talking loudly and pointing to go ahead. I am saved by a younger man on my right talking to them and waving in the direction I have preferred. In no time I am beside the N-VI and facing a tunnel. It is a wide tunnel with a signs saying what can pass through. I see cars, bicycles, people and other stuff. So I proceed: the tunnel is well lit but I still put my headlight on and 415 metres later I am at exiting.
From here for 9 km to Trabadelo the road follows beside a river and is flat. And there is a paved path beside the road with a concrete barrier. Suddenly, it seems, there is an attractive woman striding alone side of me. She has also started from Cacabelos and is headed for Vega de Valcarce (Valcarchay is my take): this is Janine from Alaska. I learn she has four boys (who learn to shoot at about 12 to be safe from marauding wild life) and lots of other stuff. She wants to know which island I live on. Remembering James Cooks map of 1770 I reply Te Ika a Maui and tell the story of why it is called the Fish of Maui and that I live near the mouth of the fish of Maui (Wellington Harbour) and also the story of the waka of Maui and his brothers: after all we have more than an hour to use up. We stop at the entrance to Trabadelo: me for a Zumo etc and her for an early lunch.
I move on the 9 km to Vega del Valcarce for my late lunch after 27 km of walking.
The guide says 6.5 km to La Faba and about 300 metres of elevation increase. The walk along the river valley is pleasant enough but no significant rise in elevation. The hills loom up either side and to my right I can see the A-6 motorway bridges: these remind me of the stairs in Tyve’s dream house in Fiddler on the Roof – one for coming down and one (at a much higher elevation, it seems) just for going up. And in this valley I keep hearing bells tinkling. First I see a small flock of sheep with a good growth on them: it takes a while to spot the ram and even longer for him to do a quarter turn so I can see the bell under his neck. Then small groups of cows with the sound of a bell coming across the stream. There is no doubt this is dairying country from the cow pats on the road.
After a lovely 4 km of this the climb starts and after more than 30 km so far I am in no mood for the sudden rise: 250 metres in 2 km – you’ve got to be joking. But I don’t wont to do the entire hill in the morning. I am saved by the sound of a car and I am quick enough to put my thumb out in time. The driver needs to hop out to open the passenger door and we are away. We have quite a long chat so it must have been more than 2 km (or so it seems). And she takes me to the Parish albergue run by a German group dedicated to Jacobsweg (Jacob or James’ way).
The hospitalera is welcoming and efficient: she tells me she spends a fortnight each year opening the albergue and the final two weeks of October before closing it for the year and that she has done this for 14 years. The kitchen and eating room is a pleasure: the furniture is of pine or similar wood and looks as though one bench was bespoke made to fit the angles of the walls. I first cook some porridge and later go to the tienda (think small narrow bedroom) for some food for dinner. The downstairs dorm sleeps about 28 (14 bunks) and there are about 20 of us and we all work in together using the kitchen.
While I hog one of the two power sockets in the dining room my recharger can take 4 devices. I catch up on Monday’s DomPost and the other news sites I watch.
And so to bed.
26 October 2017
day 46 – draft Saturday, 21 October 2017 Ponferrada to Cacabelos
day 46 – draft
Saturday, 21 October 2017
Ponferrada to Cacabelos (Kakabayloss says a local)
15 km today - 589 km on Camino Frances – 1,324 km from Le Puy - 195 to Santiago
By 08h as I breakfast, I read the reply from Cathy’s friend and respond with great thanks. As I tidy my pack to head off I see, on the telly, four young men with black jackets doing a haka. Quite why this is on prime-time TV in Spain I do not discover. But I respond, in the restaurant with about four others present, in words and actions with the first line of Ka Mate. To some amusement: I don’t think they made the connection, after all Spain is not know for Rugby or many other sports we engage in.
I have checked my map and see market stalls setting up on the road I should take and head off in that direction. The staff chase after me and draw a simple map of the path I should take. I graciously accept and follow. I am lead back about 100 metre to the main avenue and past a large church with an open door. I go in and clearly Mass is not far away. I start the morning office and then follow the Mass of the day in English on my tablet.
I continue to follow the notes from breakfast and see scallop shell designs set into the footpath. After a while I come to a bridge and to my right see fortifications high on the hill above the river looking over the town. I take a wrong turn and decide to simplify by taking the main avenue out of town. I am doing well until I turn into a road that will take me quite directly to a waypoint on the walking route some 7 km away. I have gone barely 20 metres when two cyclists come towards me and gently say in best sign language I should not go that way. One says he will walk with me to where I should be, and I cannot refuse his good an gentle intentions. This will take me eastwards and I really want to go westwards. But I follow for what seems an eternity but in reality is about 10-15 minutes. I know it is 10-15 minutes I will repeat when eventually I start westwards and together with the getting mislaid in the town itself I am a little despondent. But overall I am felling OK.
My intention had been to get to Villafranca del Bierzo, Bierzo being the name of the region hereabouts. No matter where I look I can only see hills as I walk. But as I approach Cacabelos I see a large hoarding advertising a hotel with a bath in each room: I am hooked. Less than an hour later I am soaking: it is about 14h. I have a short walk about the town and rest.
About 21h I go looking for a meal. The place the hotel prefers does not offer Menu del dia at weekends and the combinations are mainly fritatas patadas (French fries) and something. So I carry on. Eventually, next to the parish church, I find a bar doing a roaring trade with a sign outside proclaiming Menu del dia. I easily make a choice.
And so to bed
Saturday, 21 October 2017
Ponferrada to Cacabelos (Kakabayloss says a local)
15 km today - 589 km on Camino Frances – 1,324 km from Le Puy - 195 to Santiago
By 08h as I breakfast, I read the reply from Cathy’s friend and respond with great thanks. As I tidy my pack to head off I see, on the telly, four young men with black jackets doing a haka. Quite why this is on prime-time TV in Spain I do not discover. But I respond, in the restaurant with about four others present, in words and actions with the first line of Ka Mate. To some amusement: I don’t think they made the connection, after all Spain is not know for Rugby or many other sports we engage in.
I have checked my map and see market stalls setting up on the road I should take and head off in that direction. The staff chase after me and draw a simple map of the path I should take. I graciously accept and follow. I am lead back about 100 metre to the main avenue and past a large church with an open door. I go in and clearly Mass is not far away. I start the morning office and then follow the Mass of the day in English on my tablet.
I continue to follow the notes from breakfast and see scallop shell designs set into the footpath. After a while I come to a bridge and to my right see fortifications high on the hill above the river looking over the town. I take a wrong turn and decide to simplify by taking the main avenue out of town. I am doing well until I turn into a road that will take me quite directly to a waypoint on the walking route some 7 km away. I have gone barely 20 metres when two cyclists come towards me and gently say in best sign language I should not go that way. One says he will walk with me to where I should be, and I cannot refuse his good an gentle intentions. This will take me eastwards and I really want to go westwards. But I follow for what seems an eternity but in reality is about 10-15 minutes. I know it is 10-15 minutes I will repeat when eventually I start westwards and together with the getting mislaid in the town itself I am a little despondent. But overall I am felling OK.
My intention had been to get to Villafranca del Bierzo, Bierzo being the name of the region hereabouts. No matter where I look I can only see hills as I walk. But as I approach Cacabelos I see a large hoarding advertising a hotel with a bath in each room: I am hooked. Less than an hour later I am soaking: it is about 14h. I have a short walk about the town and rest.
About 21h I go looking for a meal. The place the hotel prefers does not offer Menu del dia at weekends and the combinations are mainly fritatas patadas (French fries) and something. So I carry on. Eventually, next to the parish church, I find a bar doing a roaring trade with a sign outside proclaiming Menu del dia. I easily make a choice.
And so to bed
day 45 – draft Friday, 20 October 2017 Astorga to Ponferrada
day 45 – draft
Friday, 20 October 2017
Astorga to Ponferrada
53 km today - 574 km on Camino Frances – 1,309 km from Le Puy - 210 to Santiago
I rise about 07h in my hotel room and go to breakfast. I decide I am feeling better but uncertain of how I will feel later in the day or the next. I decide to bus ahead to Ponferrada and see how the day develops.
By 10h I am at the Cathedral for Mass and before 11h at the nearby Bishops Palace to wander around. The principal architect was Anton Gaudi (of Barcelona) and I cannot understand the man taking on this commission. Astorga itself has a population of 12,000 now and the surrounding area does not seem prosperous (but that is just my impression). The building itself is magnificent but as a home and diocesan office, literally, out of this world. During my visit I learn no bishop ever resided there, and no wonder. But both outside and in it is a work of art and long may it be maintained. Inside I cannot discern a shape, until I see a plan: in essence it is a cross which each arm of equal length and aerial photos bear this out in the roof line. But that is not what you see inside.
Just after 12h I am at the Estacion Autobus buying my ticket and by just after 14h I am in the cafe at Ponferrada checking out accommodation. The trip itself is through very hilly country with both the N-120 (now the N-VI but the distances are a continuation from Logrono) and the A-6 (motorway) jostling for space and a railway creeping around the hills with a long tunnel: Astorga is about 870 metres above sea-level (ASL) and Ponferrada about 550 metres ASL I find this trip quite exhiliarating.
My first choice is complete (full up) but the reception rings another close by and ‘they are waiting for me’. On checking in I give my British / EU passport. The owner is concerned about an Englander, but when I indicate my kilt and say Ecosse / Scottish he is all smiles. I lie down for a while and then go walkabout. For a population of around 70,000 (think Palmerston North) the town seems quite compact. But like all Spanish cities it is multi-story apartment living. I find the Estacion Tren (pronounced train) and it is almost bereft of live. But the departures board show around seven services over the six hours remaining this day, including one to Barcelona, right across the country.
I return and have another lie down, returning to the restaurant about 21h for a Menu del dia selection. Nothing is written down so we work through the options using a translate service on my tablet: success.
In my room I email a friend of Cathy’s who had walked from Saint-Jean to Santiago in September 2011 and ask her counsel.
And so to bed
Friday, 20 October 2017
Astorga to Ponferrada
53 km today - 574 km on Camino Frances – 1,309 km from Le Puy - 210 to Santiago
I rise about 07h in my hotel room and go to breakfast. I decide I am feeling better but uncertain of how I will feel later in the day or the next. I decide to bus ahead to Ponferrada and see how the day develops.
By 10h I am at the Cathedral for Mass and before 11h at the nearby Bishops Palace to wander around. The principal architect was Anton Gaudi (of Barcelona) and I cannot understand the man taking on this commission. Astorga itself has a population of 12,000 now and the surrounding area does not seem prosperous (but that is just my impression). The building itself is magnificent but as a home and diocesan office, literally, out of this world. During my visit I learn no bishop ever resided there, and no wonder. But both outside and in it is a work of art and long may it be maintained. Inside I cannot discern a shape, until I see a plan: in essence it is a cross which each arm of equal length and aerial photos bear this out in the roof line. But that is not what you see inside.
Just after 12h I am at the Estacion Autobus buying my ticket and by just after 14h I am in the cafe at Ponferrada checking out accommodation. The trip itself is through very hilly country with both the N-120 (now the N-VI but the distances are a continuation from Logrono) and the A-6 (motorway) jostling for space and a railway creeping around the hills with a long tunnel: Astorga is about 870 metres above sea-level (ASL) and Ponferrada about 550 metres ASL I find this trip quite exhiliarating.
My first choice is complete (full up) but the reception rings another close by and ‘they are waiting for me’. On checking in I give my British / EU passport. The owner is concerned about an Englander, but when I indicate my kilt and say Ecosse / Scottish he is all smiles. I lie down for a while and then go walkabout. For a population of around 70,000 (think Palmerston North) the town seems quite compact. But like all Spanish cities it is multi-story apartment living. I find the Estacion Tren (pronounced train) and it is almost bereft of live. But the departures board show around seven services over the six hours remaining this day, including one to Barcelona, right across the country.
I return and have another lie down, returning to the restaurant about 21h for a Menu del dia selection. Nothing is written down so we work through the options using a translate service on my tablet: success.
In my room I email a friend of Cathy’s who had walked from Saint-Jean to Santiago in September 2011 and ask her counsel.
And so to bed
day 44 – draft Thursday, 19 October 2017 Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga
day 44 – draft
Thursday, 19 October 2017
Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga
14 km today - 521 km on Camino Frances – 1,256 km from Le Puy - 263 to Santiago
I first rise about 01h and then 02h, and finally about 05h:Delhi Belly has struck again. Activity begins just after 06h and I am ready at 07h. As things seem settled I decide to push off: I don’t have much choice, as we must leave by 08h. And saying I am ill may, or may not, produce a response adequate to the needs.
At about 08h30 (about 7.30 pm NZ time) the sky is lighting up and I check the RNZ website for news. And surprisingly there is some: Winston has just made a queen.
About 10h I reach a town about 4 km from Astorga and can see the Cathedral in the distance. A drink of fresh orange juice beckons first however.
On entering the town, using the N-120 road that started in Logrono I photo the red distance marker for 350 km. From Astorga it becomes the N-VI (N-006) but the distance from Logrono is continued.
By 11h I am in the Cathedral and begin to feel faint. I realise I have not eaten properly since the weekend and go and check in at a nearby hotel: Trivago says E 71 and the hotel says E 55 including breakfast. First order is to lie down and rest.
I rise about 16h and walk about this compact town of about 12,000 people. I pass a Farmacia and buy some tablets for the Delhi Belly. And about 100 metres on a Pelequeria, but it seems to focus on women. I stand at the door and a hairdresser beckons me in and another hairdresser sits me down and puts a cape around my shoulders. I point to me beard and hold the index finger up: numero uno she says and I smile. Five minute and E 6 later we are all trimmed. I find a promenade about 400 metres long built atop a cliff facing west. The south and east sides have steep roads now but previously had ramparts etc. I am sure the more vulnerable north side had such defences also. Even though only writing four days later, I do not recall having a meal, though I must have eaten something: but Delhi Belly does enter my calculations
I am feeling terrible and not sure whether to continue walking or not. I email a friend: his reply is the old vaudeville song “keep right on to the end of the road”. The end of my road is Fisterra, or Finisterra or lands end: beyond here “be dragons” said the ancient maps. So I am not certain what to make of this.
I return to my room well before sunset at 21h30
And so to bed
PS: Cathy was born 71 years ago this day to John Henry Raphael and Catherine Elizabeth (also known as Kay). Cathy told me when her father’s parents presented him for baptism the priest opined John Henry was not sufficiently Christian and, on the spot, added Raphael. I have reflected on Cathy both today and yesterday. Yesterday was 18 October, the Feast of Saint Luke (the gentle physician and author of a large proportion of the Christian bible) and was the name Cathy took when she was professed as a Religious Sister of Mercy (Sister Mary Luke) and under which she dedicated 33 years of her life. And this day, her birthday, as she is the principal reason why I am on this pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Thursday, 19 October 2017
Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga
14 km today - 521 km on Camino Frances – 1,256 km from Le Puy - 263 to Santiago
I first rise about 01h and then 02h, and finally about 05h:Delhi Belly has struck again. Activity begins just after 06h and I am ready at 07h. As things seem settled I decide to push off: I don’t have much choice, as we must leave by 08h. And saying I am ill may, or may not, produce a response adequate to the needs.
At about 08h30 (about 7.30 pm NZ time) the sky is lighting up and I check the RNZ website for news. And surprisingly there is some: Winston has just made a queen.
About 10h I reach a town about 4 km from Astorga and can see the Cathedral in the distance. A drink of fresh orange juice beckons first however.
On entering the town, using the N-120 road that started in Logrono I photo the red distance marker for 350 km. From Astorga it becomes the N-VI (N-006) but the distance from Logrono is continued.
By 11h I am in the Cathedral and begin to feel faint. I realise I have not eaten properly since the weekend and go and check in at a nearby hotel: Trivago says E 71 and the hotel says E 55 including breakfast. First order is to lie down and rest.
I rise about 16h and walk about this compact town of about 12,000 people. I pass a Farmacia and buy some tablets for the Delhi Belly. And about 100 metres on a Pelequeria, but it seems to focus on women. I stand at the door and a hairdresser beckons me in and another hairdresser sits me down and puts a cape around my shoulders. I point to me beard and hold the index finger up: numero uno she says and I smile. Five minute and E 6 later we are all trimmed. I find a promenade about 400 metres long built atop a cliff facing west. The south and east sides have steep roads now but previously had ramparts etc. I am sure the more vulnerable north side had such defences also. Even though only writing four days later, I do not recall having a meal, though I must have eaten something: but Delhi Belly does enter my calculations
I am feeling terrible and not sure whether to continue walking or not. I email a friend: his reply is the old vaudeville song “keep right on to the end of the road”. The end of my road is Fisterra, or Finisterra or lands end: beyond here “be dragons” said the ancient maps. So I am not certain what to make of this.
I return to my room well before sunset at 21h30
And so to bed
PS: Cathy was born 71 years ago this day to John Henry Raphael and Catherine Elizabeth (also known as Kay). Cathy told me when her father’s parents presented him for baptism the priest opined John Henry was not sufficiently Christian and, on the spot, added Raphael. I have reflected on Cathy both today and yesterday. Yesterday was 18 October, the Feast of Saint Luke (the gentle physician and author of a large proportion of the Christian bible) and was the name Cathy took when she was professed as a Religious Sister of Mercy (Sister Mary Luke) and under which she dedicated 33 years of her life. And this day, her birthday, as she is the principal reason why I am on this pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
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