day 46 – draft Saturday, 21 October 2017 Ponferrada to Cacabelos

day 46  – draft
Saturday, 21 October 2017
Ponferrada to Cacabelos  (Kakabayloss says a local)
15 km today - 589 km on Camino Frances – 1,324 km from Le Puy - 195 to Santiago

By 08h as I breakfast, I read the reply from Cathy’s friend and respond with great thanks.  As I tidy my pack to head off I see, on the telly, four young men with black jackets doing a haka.  Quite why this is on prime-time TV in Spain I do not discover.  But I respond, in the restaurant with about four others present, in words and actions with the first line of Ka Mate. To some amusement: I don’t think they made the connection, after all Spain is not know for Rugby or many other sports we engage in.

I have checked my map and see market stalls setting up on the road I should take and head off in that direction.  The staff chase after me and draw a simple map of the path I should take.  I graciously accept and follow.  I am lead back about 100 metre to the main avenue and past a large church with an open door.  I go in and clearly Mass is not far away.  I start the morning office and then follow the Mass of the day in English on my tablet. 

I continue to follow the notes from breakfast and see scallop shell designs set into the footpath.  After a while I come to a bridge and to my right see fortifications high on the hill above the river looking over the town.  I take a wrong turn and decide to simplify by taking the main avenue out of town.  I am doing well until I turn into a road that will take me quite directly to a waypoint on the walking route some 7 km away.  I have gone barely 20 metres when two cyclists come towards me and gently say in best sign language I should not go that way.  One says he will walk with me to where I should be, and I cannot refuse his good an gentle intentions.  This will take me eastwards and I really want to go westwards.  But I follow for what seems an eternity but in reality is about 10-15 minutes.  I know it is 10-15 minutes I will repeat when eventually I start westwards and together with the getting mislaid in the town itself I am a little despondent.  But overall I am felling OK.

My intention had been to get to Villafranca del Bierzo, Bierzo being the name of the region hereabouts.  No matter where I look I can only see hills as I walk.  But as I approach Cacabelos I see a large hoarding advertising a hotel with a bath in each room: I am hooked.  Less than an hour later I am soaking: it is about 14h.   I have a short walk about the town and rest.

About 21h I go looking for a meal.  The place the hotel prefers does not offer Menu del dia at weekends and the combinations are mainly fritatas patadas (French fries) and something.  So I carry on.  Eventually, next to the parish church, I find a bar doing a roaring trade with a sign outside proclaiming Menu del dia.  I easily make a choice.

And so to bed