next steps - return to Estella-Lizarra

Thursday, 28 September 2017

On Thursday, 5 May 2016 I was on day 30 of my walking trip from Le Puy-en-Velay, France and had completed 808 km on arrival at Zalbadika, a small village about 15 km before Pamplona (both in Spain).  

Later that day I negotiated the short but steep descent from Alto-del-Perdon towards Uterga, where I stayed the night.  The next day, Friday, a severe pain developed in my right thigh.  I struggled on to Estella-Lizarra to stay at the parish albergue, still managing to complete 30 km.

On Saturday, on the suggestion of the Brazilian hospitalero, I bused to Logrono, trained to Barcelona, stayed three nights and visit three major buildings designed by Anton Gaudi, returned to Logrono where I stayed the night.  On Wednesday walked to Ventosa and Thursday to Najera, both quite short distances with continuing discomfort.  Started walking on Friday and soon noticed my rain poncho was missing.  Back to Najera to bus to Burgos.  Here I got a rain coat and stayed the night in the quite new municipal albergue.

On Saturday morning I was first out of Burgos, but soon overtaken and stop after 10 km.  On Sunday I continue 20 km to Hontanas but with much pain towards the end.  The next morning I cannot stand except with support and an ambulance is called: I am very emotional when I sit down in the ambulance.  Desultory attendance at the large hospital back in Burgos (I feel their diagnosis - osteo arthritis - is based on my age and not my story line).  Monday through Friday nights in a 3 star hotel near Burgos city centre and keep bumping into walkers I had met in the past five weeks.

On Saturday, 28 May 2016, I fly to London to stay with my eldest son and his family.  The NHS takes a lot of x-rays and the verdict is NOT osteo arthritis, so find an osteopath to manipulate the bones and muscles.  The immediate relief is great but still requires exercises to complete the recovery.  

During June I do a number of day trips including sections of Thames path centred on Staines, at the western edge of London and near the circular M25.

On Saturday, 25 June 2016, I began Thames Path from the source taking nine days to reach Windsor (the section to Staines I had already completed).  In July do more one day sections with my sister-in-law, reaching from Richmond to Vauxhall Station (Waterloo Station was next).  I finish Thames Path by starting at Woolwich on a Saturday and walk up stream to Waterloo Station on the Monday.  On the Sunday I complete my very long term desire of visiting all mainline railway stations by going to Fenchurch Street and Liverpool Street.

In early August I start out from Southwark Cathedral (close to the modern Globe Theatre and London Bridge) on the south (right) bank of the Thames heading towards Canterbury Cathedral via Rochester Cathedral taking the North Downs Way.  On this trip, as on the rural part of Thames Path, my lightweight tent is in frequent use.

As well as walking I do many trips into central London with my 7 year old grandson or by myself.  And during term time usually walk with him the 2 km to and from school.

I return home, as scheduled, early September 2016 having been away almost five months.  And by now pulled muscles in my right thigh are fully recovered.

From September 2016 to September 2017 I keep up my training walks, review my gear and decide to return in October 2017 to restart from my effective stopping point on Friday, 6 May 2016 of Estella-Lizarra.  

I post this a few days before I leave home.  My 2017 outward journey is:

1) Depart Wellington 21h15, Sunday, 1 Oct to arrive Heathrow T2 at 15h40, Monday, 2 Oct;
2) Meal with whanau at Heathrow T5 and depart 19h20 to arrive Madrid T4 at 22h45;
3) Depart Madrid T4 bus stop at 01h15, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Logrono at 05h00;
4) Depart Logrono at 07h45, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Estella-Lizarra at 08h49.

Immediate business at Estella is to:
a) get a sello (rubber stamp) in my pilgrim credntial (passport);
b) get a sim card with voice and data for Spain and the rest of Europe (including UK);
c) get a fizz bottle to use with my drinking tube and mouth piece;
d) get going towards the wine fountain 3km down the road and beyond.

My pack and sleeping bag (courtesy zPack), android tablet (Samsung), collapsible porridge bowl (Kathmandu), tops (merino) and shoes (New Balance 860, but latest model) are unchanged. From Estella I will have my 2 person tent (zPack - used for Thames Path and Southwark to Canterbury in 2016), both in case of need in Spain and because of the two trips I currently intend to do in Scotland after arrival at Muxia / Fisterra. All other detail is new. Total weight, including water, tablet (with keyboard and cover) is about 8.5 kg and is what I have carried in my training trips this year. 

As with last year, I have some anxiety about how I will get on.  But suspect, as with last year, those feelings will evaporate once underway.

Now be ready to read on.

day 31 – draft Friday, 6 May 2016 Uterga to Estella / Lizarra

day 31 – draft

Friday, 6 May 2016

Uterga to Estella / Lizarra

30 km today - 115 km on Camino Frances  - 848 km to date 

Up with the early mob, breakfast and get going.  Today I have a small 5 km diversion to a unique octagonal chapel at the locality of Eunate dedicated to Santa Maria.  As I approach the chapel a worrying pain develops at the top of my right leg.  I immediately blame the huge strides I was taking yesterday coming down the Sierra del Perdon.  The chapel looks just like the online photos and is open at the weekend.  I decide not to wait.

Obanos is about 5 km away and I do the best I can to get there.  At the approach I am struck by the design of the church tower: it looks decidedly English in style, upright, square and with higher stone work (pinnacles) in each corner.  Another town with nothing apparently open and I move quickly towards Puente la Reina.  A nice busy town and I stop to say the morning office in an open church.  There is a grand bridge on the way out of town.

I stay on the way until Maneru where I take morning tea then take the road to Cirauqui.  Back to the way for the Roman bridge but soon wish I hadn't.  The descent through the ruins is extremely challenging (because of the pain in my right hip) as is the climb back up to the way.  Fortunately, the road adjoins the way at this point and I move on to it.  This relatively major road is wide, flat across its width with good wide shoulders and nice gradients, and little used.  It is grand to walk along.

A few km before Lizarra the discomfort level is too high and I hitch.  My driver knows exactly where the parish albergue is and takes me directly there.  Here I meet Juan Carlos, a volunteer hospitalero from Brazil.  He takes an interest in my condition and quickly commends me to bus forward to Logrono and from there go to my intended break at Barcelona.

I go and get some food to cook for dinner.

And so to bed.

day 30 – draft Thursday, 5 May 2016 Zabaldika to Uterga

day 30 – draft

Thursday, 5 May 2016

Zabaldika to Uterga

24 km today - 86 km on Camino Frances - 808 km to date

Up with the early group, who leave just after 6h30.  I get a comfy spot and recreate a missed blog, review others, uploading as I go, then send an advisory email to all.  With breakfast, another chat to Amanda, photos with many, including the staff, I leave just after 8h30.  The suburban areas of Trinidad de Arre and Villava are encountered.  Once I cross the Arga River there is a long but delightful stroll through Villava: nice wide tree lined streets, good looking apartment blocks and long bendy busses and arrows in the way at very regular intervals, even when crossing a road.

Then I get a glimpse of Pamplona's Cathedral up high on the edge of a cliff.  Cross the River Arga by a medieval bridge, climb a road through the ancient walls and fortifications and enter into a modern medieval town.  It is clear this is a pedestrian precinct where cars and smaller delivery vans coexist on a mutual footing: it just feels great.  Modern in the sense most five storey (or so) buildings in an area roughly a kilometre square appear to have been built in the last 30 to 40 years.  Medieval in the sense street layout seems preserved: some are in more or less straight lines, some slightly wavy and some in gentle curves.

I meet a middle aged woman, whom I had seen on and off over recent days, who goes home today.  I learn she started at Le Puy five days after me.  She says she will return to Pamplona next year and continue to Compostella.  I congratulate her on such a fast trip and we part.  At the Tourism Office I meet Santosh from India, now living in Ohio and Stephanie from Milwaukee.  I get connected to Orange's Spanish network for text messages and data.  Then to the cathedral where I say the Morning office to learn it is Thursday and Ascension Day.  The structure itself is quietly straightforward with the ceiling bosses decorated.  There are pews down the centre of the nave then wide side aisles with chapels beyond that again.  In all those I look at there is a retable on the wall behind the altar: these typically have three or four rows with five panels in each row.  Each panel shows, often in relief carvings highly decorated, a biblical scene, a biblical character or a saint.  These retable, very common in Spain I discover, serve a similar purpose to the highly decorated tympani I have seen in surrounding a major entrance in abbeys etc in France and Italy.

On leaving, I grab some fruit, cheese and a drink for lunch today and tomorrow from a .shop in a modern building in the old town.  After leaving the original town I am in a modern scene of wide straight streets and modern buildings, stopping in a botanical gardens for lunch.  Crossing over an arterial ring road, a single line railway and a motorway, I pull up into Cizur Menor.  First encounter is with a chapel that is all that remains of a hospital established by the Knights of Saint John of Malta many, many years ago.  On the outskirts of Cizur Menor I stop to try my luck taking photos of the windmills along the ridge line of the Sierra del Perdon range: the Camino climbs up from here and down the other side: a young male walker comes across and offers to take one with me and the range behind.  We get to talk: he is Dan from Chicago.  He also struggles with being east and south from here, or any other geographical hints as to where my home country is.  We part about 14h40.

The pull up from Cizur Menor is strenuous in the heat of the afternoon and I stop near a cemetery just before the village of Zariquiequi for porridge, orange, banana and water.  As I enter the village, the two that had vigorously applauded as I entered Larrsoana the day before are ensconced outside the bar.  They, and others with them, applaud vigorously as I stride past.  I had thought of stopping here but the reception, though well meant, serves to hasten me on.

I continue up to where the way crests the Sierra del Perdon, festooned with silhouette figures cut from sheet steel.  Here I take some photos and carry on.  It is now about 16th and I am a little anxious about a bed for the night.  Uterga is about 3 km away down an infamous steep pathway.  My pocket book lists one albergue in Uterga with 16 beds and six people passed me as I took photos.  The next albergue listed in the pocket book is another 11 km on.  I start the descent gingerly as it is both steep and covered with loose pebbles.  Then I notice “streams” of slightly clearer ground and follow those at a better rate.  Then comes the obstacle course, a flight of “steps” formed by large squared off logs (like original railway sleepers, only bigger) with a high but manageable drop to the next step.  Using my walking pole to steady myself I try several and it works so I go down in grand style.  Then more streams through the loose pebbles and Uterga with two albergue opposite one another to choose from.  The one I  choose has 22 beds alone.  And even several hours after I arrive is still accepting walkers.

Wash clothes and have a meal.

And so to bed.

day 29 – draft Wednesday, 4 May 2016 Roncesvalles / Orreaga to Zabaldika

day 29 – draft
Wednesday, 4 May 2016
Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga  to  Zabaldika
37 km today - 61 km on Camino Frances - 784 km to date

In the breakfast queue meet two Kiwis: from Rotorua and Christchurch.  On the road before 08h.

This is pleasant country to walk through.  The day is clear and not too warm, after all we are about 1000 metres (over 3,000 feet) above sea level.  Lots of ups and downs, and generally good pathways under foot.

The village of Zubiri is about 21 km from Orr Eagan so I cross the bridge away from the path to have a look.  The only cafe I can see is teeming with people and I decide to move on.  Larrasoana is another 6 km and I arrive here about midday.  Not a soul in sight and nothing open.  I find a seat in the square and eat porridge I had prepared two days ago and fruit bought two days ago.  The path now comprises stones and some mud, so move to the road as soon as I can.  And this is pleasant.

My intention of Zabaldika arrives and I ascend to the village.  This is a parish albergue and is very neat and tidy.  It backs on to the 16th century church.  There is also a community of three religious sisters of the Sacred Heart.  Os comes to greet each one of us: on hearing I am from Wellington in New Zealand she tells me they have a house there.  About 18h there is a ritual of greeting, explanation of the church and stamps in our pilgrim passports.  Communal dinner is about 7 pm and, back in the church, a shortened night prayer with individuals sharing why they are on this pilgrimage.  The sister what had greeted us is leading and she had warned me beforehand that she would ask me first.  So I tell them about Cathy.

And so to bed.

day 28 – draft Tuesday, 3 May 2016 Saint-Jean-pied-de-port to Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga

day 28 – draft
Tuesday, 3 May 2016
Saint-Jean-pied-de-port to Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga
24 km today - 24 km on Camino Frances - 747 km to date

Breakfast is do it yourself from when you get up, and I am up just after 6h and ready to go just before 7h.

The first 15 km is one long rise from 200 metres above sea level (asl) to over 1300 metres asl.  While an average of about 8 metres rise for every 100 metres walked the reality is long sections of more than 10 metres rise for every 100 metres walked.  In other words very, very, very steep.  In my training I had not encountered such steepness and not over such a prolonged distance.  The early parts are good and I stride away, my general fitness from lots of training plus four weeks on the road helps a lot.

As we get to the steep sections I develop a technique of taking very short steps and timing my breathing to each step, in on the left foot going down and out on the right.  Despite the short step, I find I am passing everyone.  A pause after 8 km at a refuge to check the weather: all good, no snow and no rain.  At this point we are in fog and my informant doesn't mention wind.  The fog thickens and a strong wind gets up.  Keeping an eye on the markers does worry me, especially since at times I cannot see anyone else.

A sign announces the last French stamp for the walkers credential and soon I see a crowd of about 20 or more walkers hovering around a stall selling bananas and stuff.  I pause for a few moments but the wind bites me and I move on.  About this point we leave the road and negotiate what seems like an obstacle course with every natural blockage I've encountered so far all assembled in one place.  Plus fog and strong wind.

I can see about 20 to 100 metres either side or in front.  As best I can, I try to keep others in sight.  Sometimes this is only one person.  But she seems confident of where she is, so I keep as calm as I can.  I notice there are trees at this height (about 4000 metres above sea level) and that they are just beginning to bud.  This is slow compared with the spring growth I have encountered elsewhere from day 1.

After what seems like an eternity of this I encounter the Col de Lepoeder, the pass through the Pyrenees route we are on.  Apart from relatively pristine snow on the ground, which we also have to go through, albeit for only a few metres, there is nothing to see except the ground sloping away quite quickly.  What an anti-climax. 

Shortly afterwards there is a decision to be made.  At the Pilgrims Office in Saint-Jean we were strenuously warned to take the road route down and under no circumstances go down through the forest.  The difficulty is this: the forest route is the only one marked and there is no indication where the road we are on will lead to.  So, the group I am with all decide to go down through the forest.  We knew it would be steep, and it is.  The difficulty is in the early stages and quite quickly it becomes quite pleasant.

I reach Roncesvalles about 12h30, nearly two hours sooner than the suggested time. 
After some reflection I decide to stay here tonight.

Mass is at 19h and it seems nearly all the 200 or so walkers are there.  Rather than come forward, as the five of us did at Saint Jean, the pilgrims blessing includes a recital of the countries the walkers are from.  I don't hear New Zealand (or a variant) and nor do the other handful of New Zealanders present.

Then to dinner: I and a woman from Virginia, United States get to talking and have to break the curfew of 22nd.

And so to (my own) bed.