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28 September 2017

next steps - return to Estella-Lizarra

Thursday, 28 September 2017

On Thursday, 5 May 2016 I was on day 30 of my walking trip from Le Puy-en-Velay, France and had completed 808 km on arrival at Zalbadika, a small village about 15 km before Pamplona (both in Spain).  

Later that day I negotiated the short but steep descent from Alto-del-Perdon towards Uterga, where I stayed the night.  The next day, Friday, a severe pain developed in my right thigh.  I struggled on to Estella-Lizarra to stay at the parish albergue, still managing to complete 30 km.

On Saturday, on the suggestion of the Brazilian hospitalero, I bused to Logrono, trained to Barcelona, stayed three nights and visit three major buildings designed by Anton Gaudi, returned to Logrono where I stayed the night.  On Wednesday walked to Ventosa and Thursday to Najera, both quite short distances with continuing discomfort.  Started walking on Friday and soon noticed my rain poncho was missing.  Back to Najera to bus to Burgos.  Here I got a rain coat and stayed the night in the quite new municipal albergue.

On Saturday morning I was first out of Burgos, but soon overtaken and stop after 10 km.  On Sunday I continue 20 km to Hontanas but with much pain towards the end.  The next morning I cannot stand except with support and an ambulance is called: I am very emotional when I sit down in the ambulance.  Desultory attendance at the large hospital back in Burgos (I feel their diagnosis - osteo arthritis - is based on my age and not my story line).  Monday through Friday nights in a 3 star hotel near Burgos city centre and keep bumping into walkers I had met in the past five weeks.

On Saturday, 28 May 2016, I fly to London to stay with my eldest son and his family.  The NHS takes a lot of x-rays and the verdict is NOT osteo arthritis, so find an osteopath to manipulate the bones and muscles.  The immediate relief is great but still requires exercises to complete the recovery.  

During June I do a number of day trips including sections of Thames path centred on Staines, at the western edge of London and near the circular M25.

On Saturday, 25 June 2016, I began Thames Path from the source taking nine days to reach Windsor (the section to Staines I had already completed).  In July do more one day sections with my sister-in-law, reaching from Richmond to Vauxhall Station (Waterloo Station was next).  I finish Thames Path by starting at Woolwich on a Saturday and walk up stream to Waterloo Station on the Monday.  On the Sunday I complete my very long term desire of visiting all mainline railway stations by going to Fenchurch Street and Liverpool Street.

In early August I start out from Southwark Cathedral (close to the modern Globe Theatre and London Bridge) on the south (right) bank of the Thames heading towards Canterbury Cathedral via Rochester Cathedral taking the North Downs Way.  On this trip, as on the rural part of Thames Path, my lightweight tent is in frequent use.

As well as walking I do many trips into central London with my 7 year old grandson or by myself.  And during term time usually walk with him the 2 km to and from school.

I return home, as scheduled, early September 2016 having been away almost five months.  And by now pulled muscles in my right thigh are fully recovered.

From September 2016 to September 2017 I keep up my training walks, review my gear and decide to return in October 2017 to restart from my effective stopping point on Friday, 6 May 2016 of Estella-Lizarra.  

I post this a few days before I leave home.  My 2017 outward journey is:

1) Depart Wellington 21h15, Sunday, 1 Oct to arrive Heathrow T2 at 15h40, Monday, 2 Oct;
2) Meal with whanau at Heathrow T5 and depart 19h20 to arrive Madrid T4 at 22h45;
3) Depart Madrid T4 bus stop at 01h15, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Logrono at 05h00;
4) Depart Logrono at 07h45, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Estella-Lizarra at 08h49.


Immediate business at Estella is to:
a) get a sello (rubber stamp) in my pilgrim credntial (passport);
b) get a sim card with voice and data for Spain and the rest of Europe (including UK);
c) get a fizz bottle to use with my drinking tube and mouth piece;
d) get going towards the wine fountain 3km down the road and beyond.

My pack and sleeping bag (courtesy zPack), android tablet (Samsung), collapsible porridge bowl (Kathmandu), tops (merino) and shoes (New Balance 860, but latest model) are unchanged. From Estella I will have my 2 person tent (zPack - used for Thames Path and Southwark to Canterbury in 2016), both in case of need in Spain and because of the two trips I currently intend to do in Scotland after arrival at Muxia / Fisterra. All other detail is new. Total weight, including water, tablet (with keyboard and cover) is about 8.5 kg and is what I have carried in my training trips this year. 


As with last year, I have some anxiety about how I will get on.  But suspect, as with last year, those feelings will evaporate once underway.

Now be ready to read on.


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