day 35 – draft Saturday, 7 October 2017 Viloria de Rioja to San Juan Ortega

day 35 – draft
Saturday, 7 October 2017
Viloria de Rioja to San Juan Ortega
32 km today - 264 km on Camino Frances - 970 km from Le Puy - 520 to Santiago

Again woke about 07h, the clothes that were washed last night are quite dry, lovely breakfast, packed and gone by 08h. 

Belorado is about 8 km on and arrive just before 10h.  On the outskirts is a church with the common bells hanging at the west end, along with a magnificent birds nest on top closest to the road: and the head of what looks like a bird peeping over the top.  Remembering in some places storks nest in such places, the better to see the signal to make a baby delivery, I am determined to get a photo of such a prescient creature.  Going up a side road (and getting stares from the local residents) I take a shot, but the head does not move.  It is in fact a piece of the stonework: no babies expected at this time then!  Coffee and orange juice stop and on my way.

At Tosantos I stop to photo an interesting structure set into the hill side on the other side of a stream.  It looks like a dwelling with a large paved area in front.  While doing this a father and son on bikes arrive.  They have English so we chat for a while and take photos of one another.  Some time later I remember an undertaking I made to my son in London and, finding a shelter/bust stop I sit down to complete this.  What would the early pilgrims have thought of all this!!

Just after 13h I arrive at Villafranca Montes de Oca, having completed around 20km.  Part of me says stop here tonight, but another part says get to Burgos (40 km from here) on Sunday.  I have a long stop, talk to a young American woman from Florida (originally Ohio), say both offices outside the closed church and at about 15h head up the hill.  Villafranca is at about 950 m above sea level (asl) and the high point of the hill is 1150 m asl and about 4 km away.  The average rate of climb is not significant – 50 metres up for every 1 km along – piece of cake!  The reality is different: quite steep sections followed by much less steep bits, but I make good time to the height.

Now, please let me take you back to Azofra two days ago.  I walked around that village and above the entrance to the parish church were about 12 names of those who, as I understood the words above, died for their country fighting communism between 1936 and 1939.  At the height of Montes de Oca, 4 km from Villafranca, is an obelisk remembering some 300 who were shot (in this locality?) in the first three months of the Civil War starting in 1936. As I understand it they did for their country fighting fascism.  I take some comfort that I live in a country that has known political extremes from time to time, but avoided widespread violence against one another.

After a time for reflection and other stuff I move off with 8 km to San Juan Ortega: this is a very gentle 100 m descent.  But it is tiring.  Clearly the pines on either side are felled for use as I often see large stacks waiting for the next stage.  I reach the albergue at 16h15.  Mass started at 18h and dinner is at 18h30.  Dinner is quite grand.  The Portugese from Viloria de Rioja had arrived just before and comes to sit next to me: I am beside myself with joy as he buys a bottle of wine and refuses my contribution.  He video calls his wife (living in Britain) and brings me into the conversation.  I am dog tired.

And so to bed.