Tuesday, 17 October 2017
Leon stay put
00 km today - 471 km on Camino Frances – 1,216 km from Le Puy - 313 to Santiago
About 02h my stomach complains about last nights meal. And not long after an attack of Delhi Belly takes hold. The resulting shambles is, luckily, confined to the bathroom. I breakfast late and lightly and things are reasonably ship shape before I head off about 11h.
I first head to the Cathedral. For me this is a remarkable structure. The notes say it was designed and built by French artisans in the French style, started about 1200 and finished (apart from a tower) before 1400. For me the outside was marginally more pleasant than the inside: I could easily see the flying buttresses (which counteract the outward pressure of the roof from collapsing the massive columns holding the roof up). Inside the width of the Cathedral was significant but distance (or bays) between the massive columns from back to front seemed relatively puny by comparison. There were but six bays from the west door to the start of the Sanctuary at the east end. The Choir occupied the middle two bays and dominates all the visual lines. But the glory of Leon Cathedral is not the building but the glass. It is mainly original, surviving from the 1500s and is marvellous. I am there on an overcast day so the amount of light coming from behind enhances rather than blinds out the colours. It is just a riot from the first floor level and the next. And as I am at floor level, my puny skills and camera will not do ten justice. You can only experience it for yourself: if you can do book a trip.
In my wanderings I encounter an outdoors shop operated by a man who speaks English and knows his products. I mislaid some socks way back so buy two pair from him.
Next is the Museum of Leon. Entrance is E 1 (yes 1). Over four levels there is pre history, Roman occupation and through to the middle ages and includes a small segment on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Back to my room to prepare for leaving on Wednesday morning as no further calamities have struck. I put all my clothes (bar two) in a large outside pocket to make easy access during a stop. They are well pushed down and will not fall out accidently. But I cannot find either of my two short sleeved merino tops. From all viewpoints wearing the only long sleeve merino top for the next fortnight will not work. So back yo the outdoor shop (just two narrow blocks away) and I get two synthetic replacements.
I do not trust myself to dinner.
And so to bed
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