Friday, 13 October 2017
Boadillo del Camino to Carrion de los Condes
25 km today - 375 km on Camino Frances – 1,053 km from Le Puy - 419 to Santiago
As soon as a light goes on at 07h I am up and about. But I have two immediate concerns. Before going to bed I wanted my headlight to be able to read, and couldn’t find it anywhere: the room lights were not convenient. It is quite compact, weights almost nothing, goes around my wrist and has solid and flashing white and red lights: the latter is really good when going about a room as it tends not to wake anyone. And I remember, when I brought my washing in I had not brought in my wash basin cum foot bath cum carry all. The latter is quickly solved: the owner had brought the drying rack under the verandah and there its is. And as the pre-sun rise takes effect I notice a shadow under the bed: it is the headlight. But all is not yet well: I cannot find a small open pouch which contains my hikers wool, washing detergent and two toe crests: a diligent search and talk with the owner reveals nothing.
I had paid E3 for breakfast: a great disappointment at having a thick hard piece of toast, water, orange drink and coffee. One of the three amigos appear and, seeing files all over the remaining pieces of toast asks the owner for fresh, the owner refuses and the one amigo goes off, not to appear again.
So I am off just after 08h This should be a game of four quarters.
First up is Fromista, 6 km away. But the real gem is the ‘Canal del Castilla’ which appears as I crest a small rise. The path alongside is good and, although early in the morning, the trees offer a nice shade. The apparent use is for irrigation and not navigation. Every so often there is a sluice gate and a channel leading away into the distance. The Canal ends at Fromista with curved dam and no locks leading to a lower level. Just as I arrive at this point civilisation rears in the form of a fast train whizzing across less than 200 metres from me. I have tortilla and coffee and are off quick quickly.
After 4 km on I take a loo stop and carry on to about halfway, Revenga de Campos. I go into the church to say the morning office and note two sisters in attendance for Exposition. I have along multi-layered text conversation with my London son and say the office and away by midday: this turning out to be a slow day even though the way is flat.
My fourth stop is at the ¾ point and is a sit down afternoon tea and a catch up with one of the three amigos from the last two nights.
Eventually I get to my destination for the day. I check out the first albergue, the (now defunct) Monasterio del Santa Clara. In front of me at check in are two American cyclists: the hospitalero checks me in and invites the three of us to accompany him to the rooms. He shows the two women to a room that looks to have only two beds in it and then invites me in as well: I can now see three beds. I check with the women if this is OK and they reply in the affirmative. I go off to get some money, drink some 0.0% beer and check out the town. When I get back the stuff on the other two beds seems different. And when I see the hospitalero he asks if I am from Scotland. I decide on a dinner of porridge (last eaten on Monday) and, in the kitchen, talk with a group from Marseille and a young woman who has completed 42 km that day. Wow! When I get back to my room the two American women have changed into two cyclists from I know not where. My guess is the hospitalero thought me to be a bearded woman. Oh well.
And so to bed
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