day 35 – draft
Saturday, 7 October 2017
Viloria de Rioja to San Juan Ortega
32 km today - 264 km on Camino Frances - 970 km from Le Puy - 520 to Santiago
Again woke about 07h, the clothes that were washed last night are quite dry, lovely breakfast, packed and gone by 08h.
Belorado is about 8 km on and arrive just before 10h. On the outskirts is a church with the common bells hanging at the west end, along with a magnificent birds nest on top closest to the road: and the head of what looks like a bird peeping over the top. Remembering in some places storks nest in such places, the better to see the signal to make a baby delivery, I am determined to get a photo of such a prescient creature. Going up a side road (and getting stares from the local residents) I take a shot, but the head does not move. It is in fact a piece of the stonework: no babies expected at this time then! Coffee and orange juice stop and on my way.
At Tosantos I stop to photo an interesting structure set into the hill side on the other side of a stream. It looks like a dwelling with a large paved area in front. While doing this a father and son on bikes arrive. They have English so we chat for a while and take photos of one another. Some time later I remember an undertaking I made to my son in London and, finding a shelter/bust stop I sit down to complete this. What would the early pilgrims have thought of all this!!
Just after 13h I arrive at Villafranca Montes de Oca, having completed around 20km. Part of me says stop here tonight, but another part says get to Burgos (40 km from here) on Sunday. I have a long stop, talk to a young American woman from Florida (originally Ohio), say both offices outside the closed church and at about 15h head up the hill. Villafranca is at about 950 m above sea level (asl) and the high point of the hill is 1150 m asl and about 4 km away. The average rate of climb is not significant – 50 metres up for every 1 km along – piece of cake! The reality is different: quite steep sections followed by much less steep bits, but I make good time to the height.
Now, please let me take you back to Azofra two days ago. I walked around that village and above the entrance to the parish church were about 12 names of those who, as I understood the words above, died for their country fighting communism between 1936 and 1939. At the height of Montes de Oca, 4 km from Villafranca, is an obelisk remembering some 300 who were shot (in this locality?) in the first three months of the Civil War starting in 1936. As I understand it they did for their country fighting fascism. I take some comfort that I live in a country that has known political extremes from time to time, but avoided widespread violence against one another.
After a time for reflection and other stuff I move off with 8 km to San Juan Ortega: this is a very gentle 100 m descent. But it is tiring. Clearly the pines on either side are felled for use as I often see large stacks waiting for the next stage. I reach the albergue at 16h15. Mass started at 18h and dinner is at 18h30. Dinner is quite grand. The Portugese from Viloria de Rioja had arrived just before and comes to sit next to me: I am beside myself with joy as he buys a bottle of wine and refuses my contribution. He video calls his wife (living in Britain) and brings me into the conversation. I am dog tired.
And so to bed.
10 October 2017
day 34 – draft Friday, 6 October 2017 Azofra to Viloria de Rioja
day 34 – draft
Friday, 6 October 2017
Azofra to Viloria de Rioja
31 km today - 236 km on Camino Frances - 969 km from Le Puy - 551 to Santiago
Woke about 07h, packed and gone by 08h. Sunrise is about 15 minutes later but I cant find a setting on my camera that shows the colours of the sky. After 10 km I pass through the outskirts of Ciruena. This looks like a dormitory suburb. I get the impression several housing developments were been started some time ago and not progressed. Wikipedia say the town has a population of 131 and I have passed several of them at about 10h.
Six km on is Santo Domingo de Calzada – Saint Dominic of the Causeway. I stop here for breakfast and lunch and to inspect the Cathedral and very significant museum on the north side. On later reflection I believe the museum occupies the (former) monastic rooms around a cloister. If so, the cloister is unusually situated on the north side and would be shaded by the cathedral proper. Inside the cathedral there is reinstatement work for the stonework of the choir underway. The chancel has an interesting arrangement. There is a U shaped bench seat furthest from the people, with the bishop’s seat given prominence in the middle. This bench seat is on a wooden platform that extends towards the people and on which is the altar, presiders seat and an ambo for readings and sermons. Were I to sit in the bishop’s chair and looked slightly left of centre I would see an elevated, glass (?) fronted cage containing a rooster and hen. The rooster regularly crows. To learn more please visit https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominic_de_la_Calzada and scroll down.
On leaving Santo Domingo I cross the River Oja by means of a very substantial bridge. The river is very wide and I can imagine after rain this river would be treacherous. But today it is quite dry. It is about here that Saint Dominic around 1150 had first a causeway, and later a bridge, built for the needs of pilgrims to Santiago.
A further 8 km on is Granon. The cafe owner shows me a photo of another kilt wearing pilgrim. Having said the afternoon office and having consumed one coffee (cafe americano, por favor), two orange juice drinks and one banana I am off.
After yet another stage of 8 km I reach the village of Viloria de Rioja. The sign boards for the alberque Acieto have an appeal. I head for it and am warmly greeted by the owner: it is late in the day and she is busy preparing the communal meal. As it has been a hot day, all the clothing worn is sodden. I put it to one side and have a lie down. When dinner is called there are six pilgrims, the owner and her partner sitting down. Going around the table a male Hollander, a male German, a couple from Bolivia, a male from Portugal (or Brazil), the Italian owner and her partner, and a female from Brazil. We are quite an animated lot. I arrange for my clothes to be machine washed (cold cycle) and they mostly dry quite quickly.
And so to bed.
Friday, 6 October 2017
Azofra to Viloria de Rioja
31 km today - 236 km on Camino Frances - 969 km from Le Puy - 551 to Santiago
Woke about 07h, packed and gone by 08h. Sunrise is about 15 minutes later but I cant find a setting on my camera that shows the colours of the sky. After 10 km I pass through the outskirts of Ciruena. This looks like a dormitory suburb. I get the impression several housing developments were been started some time ago and not progressed. Wikipedia say the town has a population of 131 and I have passed several of them at about 10h.
Six km on is Santo Domingo de Calzada – Saint Dominic of the Causeway. I stop here for breakfast and lunch and to inspect the Cathedral and very significant museum on the north side. On later reflection I believe the museum occupies the (former) monastic rooms around a cloister. If so, the cloister is unusually situated on the north side and would be shaded by the cathedral proper. Inside the cathedral there is reinstatement work for the stonework of the choir underway. The chancel has an interesting arrangement. There is a U shaped bench seat furthest from the people, with the bishop’s seat given prominence in the middle. This bench seat is on a wooden platform that extends towards the people and on which is the altar, presiders seat and an ambo for readings and sermons. Were I to sit in the bishop’s chair and looked slightly left of centre I would see an elevated, glass (?) fronted cage containing a rooster and hen. The rooster regularly crows. To learn more please visit https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominic_de_la_Calzada and scroll down.
On leaving Santo Domingo I cross the River Oja by means of a very substantial bridge. The river is very wide and I can imagine after rain this river would be treacherous. But today it is quite dry. It is about here that Saint Dominic around 1150 had first a causeway, and later a bridge, built for the needs of pilgrims to Santiago.
A further 8 km on is Granon. The cafe owner shows me a photo of another kilt wearing pilgrim. Having said the afternoon office and having consumed one coffee (cafe americano, por favor), two orange juice drinks and one banana I am off.
After yet another stage of 8 km I reach the village of Viloria de Rioja. The sign boards for the alberque Acieto have an appeal. I head for it and am warmly greeted by the owner: it is late in the day and she is busy preparing the communal meal. As it has been a hot day, all the clothing worn is sodden. I put it to one side and have a lie down. When dinner is called there are six pilgrims, the owner and her partner sitting down. Going around the table a male Hollander, a male German, a couple from Bolivia, a male from Portugal (or Brazil), the Italian owner and her partner, and a female from Brazil. We are quite an animated lot. I arrange for my clothes to be machine washed (cold cycle) and they mostly dry quite quickly.
And so to bed.
06 October 2017
day 33 - draft - Thursday, 5 October 2017 - Torres del Rio to Azofra
day 33 - draft
Thursday, 5 October 2017
Torres del Rio to Azofra
57 km today (17 walked and 40 by bus – see below)
205 km on Camino Frances - 938 km from Le Puy - 582 to Santiago
During the wee small hours I had done my blog and looked at a strategy for the day ahead. I surprise my self by waking as late as 07h, with lights on and most of the 15 or so others in the albergue quietly busying themselves. I pack and join the end of the breakfast rush and away shortly after 08h (which is daylight and before sunrise). Quite a steep pull up and after about 30 minutes pass my Austrian of last night sitting with a cigarello: we acknowledge one another.
Some time later I encounter an American in his fifties: we have a double entendre about left and right (geography or ...) and we keep in step for a few kilometres and encounter two men (looking like grandfather and grandson) doing something around a tree. My companion speaks Spanish and he an the elder have a spirited conversation. They have spread a large fine net around the base of the tree and they beat the branches with what could also be used as walking staves. The elder takes the outer smooth husk of two and gives them to me and my companion. Now they look like almonds shells that I remember from way back when: my companion tells me inside is an olive.
A woman passes (whom my American had told me when we passed her 100 metres earlier was a Kiwi) and I decide to chat with her. She is from Kapiti Coast. So, chancing my arm, I ask is she belongs to a forum about the camino to Santiago (yes) and did she ask a question about hill training opportunities in her area (yes) and did she find the walk up to Field Hut from Otaki Forks helpful (yes). Was that you, she asks (yes). We continue chatting and the remainder of the trip into Viana passes quickly enough, arriving about 10h30, We have a light meal together opposite a large open church, finishing just after 11h.
Now I will reveal my strategy for today.
You will recall last year I suffered pulled muscles and Estella was my effective stopping point. Not quite right: I had bused forward to Logrono and after a few days “rest” walked, over two days, the 30 km to Najera. So today I will bus the last 10 km to Logrono and another bus to Najera.
The bus stop at Viana takes an act of faith. I first ask the driver of a postal service yellow van. He asks an old man, who takes me in hand. Its about 100 metres down the road I was going to take anyway, then a left turn to a road that parallels the main road below. We stop at an X intersection and by sign language am told this is the bus stop. I can see one woman standing in the sun on the edge of a very wide pedestrian crossing and some large collection bins for clothing, but nothing else. But the woman and the old man are content. So I shake his hand to thank him. It is about 11h15 and the bus is due at 11h30. I then notice a man (about the same age as the woman) in shade on the opposite side of the road. I get the impression he also is waiting for the same bus, and (I find out later) will see its imminent arrival long before we do. (Why, I ask myself silently and with these facts before me, is the male of the species the more intelligent). As we close up on 11h30 a small crowd has gathered and the bus wooshes up the main road to stop by the clothing collection bins.
For the last 2-300 metres into Najera the bus and the walking way share the same space and I see many pilgrims (peregrinos) doing it the normal way. Shortly after arrival I importune a woman to take a photo of me against a backdrop of almost sheer red cliffs and then retire for three hours into a small bar and cafe I encountered last year for lunch (and just one beer!!!).
I set off about 16h30 and arrive at Azofra a little over an hour later, passing though mainly vineyards. While quite warm, a gentle breeze is most welcome and none of the stickiness and voluminous perspiration of yesterday. Azofra, Wikipedia tells me, has almost 300 residents and an ancient history with the name having Arabic connections. The albergue is a veritable oasis: three stories and offers 60 beds (not bunks), kitchen, laundry, large refectory and even larger outdoor gathering space with an ornamental pool and fountain. All provided and maintained by the (not large) Municipality of Azofra. Being a relatively late arrival, I am on the top floor, but I am not last in. I walk around the village, buy some food for Friday lunch and return to recharge my tablet. Just after 20h I am starting to drop, despite having not walked much today.
And so to bed.
Thursday, 5 October 2017
Torres del Rio to Azofra
57 km today (17 walked and 40 by bus – see below)
205 km on Camino Frances - 938 km from Le Puy - 582 to Santiago
During the wee small hours I had done my blog and looked at a strategy for the day ahead. I surprise my self by waking as late as 07h, with lights on and most of the 15 or so others in the albergue quietly busying themselves. I pack and join the end of the breakfast rush and away shortly after 08h (which is daylight and before sunrise). Quite a steep pull up and after about 30 minutes pass my Austrian of last night sitting with a cigarello: we acknowledge one another.
Some time later I encounter an American in his fifties: we have a double entendre about left and right (geography or ...) and we keep in step for a few kilometres and encounter two men (looking like grandfather and grandson) doing something around a tree. My companion speaks Spanish and he an the elder have a spirited conversation. They have spread a large fine net around the base of the tree and they beat the branches with what could also be used as walking staves. The elder takes the outer smooth husk of two and gives them to me and my companion. Now they look like almonds shells that I remember from way back when: my companion tells me inside is an olive.
A woman passes (whom my American had told me when we passed her 100 metres earlier was a Kiwi) and I decide to chat with her. She is from Kapiti Coast. So, chancing my arm, I ask is she belongs to a forum about the camino to Santiago (yes) and did she ask a question about hill training opportunities in her area (yes) and did she find the walk up to Field Hut from Otaki Forks helpful (yes). Was that you, she asks (yes). We continue chatting and the remainder of the trip into Viana passes quickly enough, arriving about 10h30, We have a light meal together opposite a large open church, finishing just after 11h.
Now I will reveal my strategy for today.
You will recall last year I suffered pulled muscles and Estella was my effective stopping point. Not quite right: I had bused forward to Logrono and after a few days “rest” walked, over two days, the 30 km to Najera. So today I will bus the last 10 km to Logrono and another bus to Najera.
The bus stop at Viana takes an act of faith. I first ask the driver of a postal service yellow van. He asks an old man, who takes me in hand. Its about 100 metres down the road I was going to take anyway, then a left turn to a road that parallels the main road below. We stop at an X intersection and by sign language am told this is the bus stop. I can see one woman standing in the sun on the edge of a very wide pedestrian crossing and some large collection bins for clothing, but nothing else. But the woman and the old man are content. So I shake his hand to thank him. It is about 11h15 and the bus is due at 11h30. I then notice a man (about the same age as the woman) in shade on the opposite side of the road. I get the impression he also is waiting for the same bus, and (I find out later) will see its imminent arrival long before we do. (Why, I ask myself silently and with these facts before me, is the male of the species the more intelligent). As we close up on 11h30 a small crowd has gathered and the bus wooshes up the main road to stop by the clothing collection bins.
For the last 2-300 metres into Najera the bus and the walking way share the same space and I see many pilgrims (peregrinos) doing it the normal way. Shortly after arrival I importune a woman to take a photo of me against a backdrop of almost sheer red cliffs and then retire for three hours into a small bar and cafe I encountered last year for lunch (and just one beer!!!).
I set off about 16h30 and arrive at Azofra a little over an hour later, passing though mainly vineyards. While quite warm, a gentle breeze is most welcome and none of the stickiness and voluminous perspiration of yesterday. Azofra, Wikipedia tells me, has almost 300 residents and an ancient history with the name having Arabic connections. The albergue is a veritable oasis: three stories and offers 60 beds (not bunks), kitchen, laundry, large refectory and even larger outdoor gathering space with an ornamental pool and fountain. All provided and maintained by the (not large) Municipality of Azofra. Being a relatively late arrival, I am on the top floor, but I am not last in. I walk around the village, buy some food for Friday lunch and return to recharge my tablet. Just after 20h I am starting to drop, despite having not walked much today.
And so to bed.
05 October 2017
day 32 – draft Wednesday, 4 October 2017 Estella / Lizarra to Torres del Rio
day 32 – draft
Wednesday, 4 October 2017
Estella to Torres del Rio
30 km today - 145 km on Camino Frances - 878 km to date - 635 to Santiago
Lights on at 06 hours. Good basic breakfast provided by hospitaleros. Hugs farewell and on the road by 07 hours. Wine fountain about 30 minutes later. And 500 m on decide to take the alternative route. A steady climb to xxx m above sea level and the better views are worth it. For some of the time the route is through 3 metres high scrub and gives good shade, even though the sun has just risen. Re-join ye main route: this has been slow – 13 km (route distance) in well over 3 hours. The wine fountain took 10 minutes, loo stop al la fresco about 20 minutes and a morning tea stop (really a rest, but I’m not admitting to this) at the highest point (also about 10 minutes) may account for the slowness.
Those who are squeamish or of a delicate constitution should skip the next paragraph.
In 2016 I had continual problems with bowel movements (you have been warned) in that they often seemed uncontrolled and uncontrollable and often very liquid like (but not of the Karitane yellow variety). This was not something I had encountered in my training. Looking back it seemed the route did not have many natural hides – often barbed wire fences on both sides of the track or no trees or just very busy. But there seemed more to it than that. Medical advice brought forward a diagnosis of a loose anal sphincter and a recommendation to try Kegels exercise, omitting only the test of proper application used by the females of the species. My diligence in applying this exercise was less than brilliant and I was in fear of severely embarrassing myself on route. Today, while walking through the scrub, it occurred I had natural cover and a short while later felt an urge. Finding a hide off track I carried on. And brought my yellow plastic spade into play as well. I tell this rather long winded story as a way of reinforcing my learning. Now read on.
I re-join the main route with 9 km to the next town, Los Arcos. Shortly after I take quite a long breather and demolish the second banana, the remainder of the mandarins and some cheese I had bought in Estella. At about 12h30 I reach the church plaza. The church is open: I go inside and say the morning office. There is a light meal shop in the plaza so have a lunch of paella and beer. I’m dreading carrying on as the heat is almost unbearable (22 in the shade with a “real feel” of 25).
The next town is 8 km on. At about 15h a group of three youngsters take off.
I decide to follow on after and catch them up after 3 km, but only because they, and quite a few others, have taken refuge in the shade of the only tree on the whole 8 km. I stop also. Several of them had started from Saint-Jean (just the other side of the Pyrenees, in France) a week ago and had covered about 20 km a day. This was, they said, the first time they were attempting more: they are walking because of word of mouth. They would get as far as they could in the next few days and then head home. Some of them have massive packs. I get a feeling some will return and do some more next year.
Sansol comes up surprisingly quickly and I carry on the 600 metres to Torres del Rio. The first albergue I encounter is a very recent large building. It is in fact a hotel with 9 bunks (18 beds in one large room). I wash nearly all my clothes, save only the longyi (a tube worn by both men and women in Myanmar): mine is made of a very light, almost diaphanous, cotton.
I’ve booked for dinner and go to the restaurant about 19h30. I am about to sit down by myself when the (so far) only male at an adjoining table asks if I am alone and would I care to join with him. The table sits 8 and soon two youngish men from Israel join us. Shortly after two women arrive and (having been properly educated) I stand, of course. The first man motion the other two to also stand and the women are quite amused. The table is complete with two more youngish Israelis.
The man is an Austrian medical man (radiography), the women are German from Mannheim and two of the Israelis work in a restaurant (as owners is the impression I have) in Tel Aviv. We find things to chat about and after 21h we move outside so some can smoke. I speak mainly with the Austrian and mainly about the EU. The Israelis say they walk because it is there and is a big change from day to day life in a city or town. I leave the party just before 23h.
It is clear to me the walking kilt thing I wear is a conversation starter. Some just want to discover they have identified “my” country (Scotland) correctly but for others it leads on.
And so to bed.
Wednesday, 4 October 2017
Estella to Torres del Rio
30 km today - 145 km on Camino Frances - 878 km to date - 635 to Santiago
Lights on at 06 hours. Good basic breakfast provided by hospitaleros. Hugs farewell and on the road by 07 hours. Wine fountain about 30 minutes later. And 500 m on decide to take the alternative route. A steady climb to xxx m above sea level and the better views are worth it. For some of the time the route is through 3 metres high scrub and gives good shade, even though the sun has just risen. Re-join ye main route: this has been slow – 13 km (route distance) in well over 3 hours. The wine fountain took 10 minutes, loo stop al la fresco about 20 minutes and a morning tea stop (really a rest, but I’m not admitting to this) at the highest point (also about 10 minutes) may account for the slowness.
Those who are squeamish or of a delicate constitution should skip the next paragraph.
In 2016 I had continual problems with bowel movements (you have been warned) in that they often seemed uncontrolled and uncontrollable and often very liquid like (but not of the Karitane yellow variety). This was not something I had encountered in my training. Looking back it seemed the route did not have many natural hides – often barbed wire fences on both sides of the track or no trees or just very busy. But there seemed more to it than that. Medical advice brought forward a diagnosis of a loose anal sphincter and a recommendation to try Kegels exercise, omitting only the test of proper application used by the females of the species. My diligence in applying this exercise was less than brilliant and I was in fear of severely embarrassing myself on route. Today, while walking through the scrub, it occurred I had natural cover and a short while later felt an urge. Finding a hide off track I carried on. And brought my yellow plastic spade into play as well. I tell this rather long winded story as a way of reinforcing my learning. Now read on.
I re-join the main route with 9 km to the next town, Los Arcos. Shortly after I take quite a long breather and demolish the second banana, the remainder of the mandarins and some cheese I had bought in Estella. At about 12h30 I reach the church plaza. The church is open: I go inside and say the morning office. There is a light meal shop in the plaza so have a lunch of paella and beer. I’m dreading carrying on as the heat is almost unbearable (22 in the shade with a “real feel” of 25).
The next town is 8 km on. At about 15h a group of three youngsters take off.
I decide to follow on after and catch them up after 3 km, but only because they, and quite a few others, have taken refuge in the shade of the only tree on the whole 8 km. I stop also. Several of them had started from Saint-Jean (just the other side of the Pyrenees, in France) a week ago and had covered about 20 km a day. This was, they said, the first time they were attempting more: they are walking because of word of mouth. They would get as far as they could in the next few days and then head home. Some of them have massive packs. I get a feeling some will return and do some more next year.
Sansol comes up surprisingly quickly and I carry on the 600 metres to Torres del Rio. The first albergue I encounter is a very recent large building. It is in fact a hotel with 9 bunks (18 beds in one large room). I wash nearly all my clothes, save only the longyi (a tube worn by both men and women in Myanmar): mine is made of a very light, almost diaphanous, cotton.
I’ve booked for dinner and go to the restaurant about 19h30. I am about to sit down by myself when the (so far) only male at an adjoining table asks if I am alone and would I care to join with him. The table sits 8 and soon two youngish men from Israel join us. Shortly after two women arrive and (having been properly educated) I stand, of course. The first man motion the other two to also stand and the women are quite amused. The table is complete with two more youngish Israelis.
The man is an Austrian medical man (radiography), the women are German from Mannheim and two of the Israelis work in a restaurant (as owners is the impression I have) in Tel Aviv. We find things to chat about and after 21h we move outside so some can smoke. I speak mainly with the Austrian and mainly about the EU. The Israelis say they walk because it is there and is a big change from day to day life in a city or town. I leave the party just before 23h.
It is clear to me the walking kilt thing I wear is a conversation starter. Some just want to discover they have identified “my” country (Scotland) correctly but for others it leads on.
And so to bed.
04 October 2017
day 32 bis (almost) – draft
Tuesday, 3 October 2017
Estella / Lizarra (pronunciation ? Estayia)
00 km today - 115 km on Camino Frances - 848 km to date - 665 to Santiago
My last post of a few days ago described, after I had pulled a bunch of muscles in my right thigh while on the way in early May 2016, what I had done as a consequence.
So, on Sunday, 1 October 2017, I left Wellington and on Tuesday, 3 October arrived back in Estella /Lizarra and back to the albergue (backpackers hostel) that I stayed at 18 months before.
And the adventures began before I arrived there.
On the plane from Wellington to Singapore a young couple had the two sets next to me. They were obviously in the bloom of their relationship. And this was confirmed when a hostess brought a cheesecake, with kiwi fruit on top, two glasses of wine and a card that said “Happy Honeymoon”. They shared cheesecake with me and the husband told me a little of their story: immigrants from eastern Europe who go back for short holidays and with no wish return permanently.
On arrival at London (Heathrow) my eldest son and his son (my grandson) were waiting for me at a fine restaurant near check-in. Luke had made a display board with my name (“Da”) on it, just like the chauffers at the arrivals hall, which he held up the moment I walked in: a grand time together, including handing over a reader from Unity Books, Wellington.
An evening flight to Madrid and coach from there to Logrono (about 350 km) and an “all stops” bus to Estella / Lizarra (about 50 km). My local business takes a lot longer than expected, so I opt to stay here the night. One of the volunteer hospitaleros is Canadian and she knows we have a head of state in common. After a “granny” nap I go and get some dinner – tortilla (tor – ti – yia) patatas. This is the famed Spanish omelette with eggs and potatoes, on this occasion topped with cheese.
And as I get underway a hospitalero and a local reporter interview me (the walking kilt does mark one out) about how I got to Estella and why, along with a photo. I am told the story will be emailed to me when printed – it will be fun translating it back into English.
And so to bed.
Tuesday, 3 October 2017
Estella / Lizarra (pronunciation ? Estayia)
00 km today - 115 km on Camino Frances - 848 km to date - 665 to Santiago
My last post of a few days ago described, after I had pulled a bunch of muscles in my right thigh while on the way in early May 2016, what I had done as a consequence.
So, on Sunday, 1 October 2017, I left Wellington and on Tuesday, 3 October arrived back in Estella /Lizarra and back to the albergue (backpackers hostel) that I stayed at 18 months before.
And the adventures began before I arrived there.
On the plane from Wellington to Singapore a young couple had the two sets next to me. They were obviously in the bloom of their relationship. And this was confirmed when a hostess brought a cheesecake, with kiwi fruit on top, two glasses of wine and a card that said “Happy Honeymoon”. They shared cheesecake with me and the husband told me a little of their story: immigrants from eastern Europe who go back for short holidays and with no wish return permanently.
On arrival at London (Heathrow) my eldest son and his son (my grandson) were waiting for me at a fine restaurant near check-in. Luke had made a display board with my name (“Da”) on it, just like the chauffers at the arrivals hall, which he held up the moment I walked in: a grand time together, including handing over a reader from Unity Books, Wellington.
An evening flight to Madrid and coach from there to Logrono (about 350 km) and an “all stops” bus to Estella / Lizarra (about 50 km). My local business takes a lot longer than expected, so I opt to stay here the night. One of the volunteer hospitaleros is Canadian and she knows we have a head of state in common. After a “granny” nap I go and get some dinner – tortilla (tor – ti – yia) patatas. This is the famed Spanish omelette with eggs and potatoes, on this occasion topped with cheese.
And as I get underway a hospitalero and a local reporter interview me (the walking kilt does mark one out) about how I got to Estella and why, along with a photo. I am told the story will be emailed to me when printed – it will be fun translating it back into English.
And so to bed.
28 September 2017
next steps - return to Estella-Lizarra
Thursday, 28 September 2017
On Thursday, 5 May 2016 I was on day 30 of my walking trip from Le Puy-en-Velay, France and had completed 808 km on arrival at Zalbadika, a small village about 15 km before Pamplona (both in Spain).
Later that day I negotiated the short but steep descent from Alto-del-Perdon towards Uterga, where I stayed the night. The next day, Friday, a severe pain developed in my right thigh. I struggled on to Estella-Lizarra to stay at the parish albergue, still managing to complete 30 km.
On Saturday, on the suggestion of the Brazilian hospitalero, I bused to Logrono, trained to Barcelona, stayed three nights and visit three major buildings designed by Anton Gaudi, returned to Logrono where I stayed the night. On Wednesday walked to Ventosa and Thursday to Najera, both quite short distances with continuing discomfort. Started walking on Friday and soon noticed my rain poncho was missing. Back to Najera to bus to Burgos. Here I got a rain coat and stayed the night in the quite new municipal albergue.
On Saturday morning I was first out of Burgos, but soon overtaken and stop after 10 km. On Sunday I continue 20 km to Hontanas but with much pain towards the end. The next morning I cannot stand except with support and an ambulance is called: I am very emotional when I sit down in the ambulance. Desultory attendance at the large hospital back in Burgos (I feel their diagnosis - osteo arthritis - is based on my age and not my story line). Monday through Friday nights in a 3 star hotel near Burgos city centre and keep bumping into walkers I had met in the past five weeks.
On Saturday, 28 May 2016, I fly to London to stay with my eldest son and his family. The NHS takes a lot of x-rays and the verdict is NOT osteo arthritis, so find an osteopath to manipulate the bones and muscles. The immediate relief is great but still requires exercises to complete the recovery.
During June I do a number of day trips including sections of Thames path centred on Staines, at the western edge of London and near the circular M25.
On Saturday, 25 June 2016, I began Thames Path from the source taking nine days to reach Windsor (the section to Staines I had already completed). In July do more one day sections with my sister-in-law, reaching from Richmond to Vauxhall Station (Waterloo Station was next). I finish Thames Path by starting at Woolwich on a Saturday and walk up stream to Waterloo Station on the Monday. On the Sunday I complete my very long term desire of visiting all mainline railway stations by going to Fenchurch Street and Liverpool Street.
In early August I start out from Southwark Cathedral (close to the modern Globe Theatre and London Bridge) on the south (right) bank of the Thames heading towards Canterbury Cathedral via Rochester Cathedral taking the North Downs Way. On this trip, as on the rural part of Thames Path, my lightweight tent is in frequent use.
As well as walking I do many trips into central London with my 7 year old grandson or by myself. And during term time usually walk with him the 2 km to and from school.
I return home, as scheduled, early September 2016 having been away almost five months. And by now pulled muscles in my right thigh are fully recovered.
From September 2016 to September 2017 I keep up my training walks, review my gear and decide to return in October 2017 to restart from my effective stopping point on Friday, 6 May 2016 of Estella-Lizarra.
I post this a few days before I leave home. My 2017 outward journey is:
1) Depart Wellington 21h15, Sunday, 1 Oct to arrive Heathrow T2 at 15h40, Monday, 2 Oct;
2) Meal with whanau at Heathrow T5 and depart 19h20 to arrive Madrid T4 at 22h45;
3) Depart Madrid T4 bus stop at 01h15, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Logrono at 05h00;
4) Depart Logrono at 07h45, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Estella-Lizarra at 08h49.
Immediate business at Estella is to:
a) get a sello (rubber stamp) in my pilgrim credntial (passport);
b) get a sim card with voice and data for Spain and the rest of Europe (including UK);
c) get a fizz bottle to use with my drinking tube and mouth piece;
d) get going towards the wine fountain 3km down the road and beyond.
My pack and sleeping bag (courtesy zPack), android tablet (Samsung), collapsible porridge bowl (Kathmandu), tops (merino) and shoes (New Balance 860, but latest model) are unchanged. From Estella I will have my 2 person tent (zPack - used for Thames Path and Southwark to Canterbury in 2016), both in case of need in Spain and because of the two trips I currently intend to do in Scotland after arrival at Muxia / Fisterra. All other detail is new. Total weight, including water, tablet (with keyboard and cover) is about 8.5 kg and is what I have carried in my training trips this year.
As with last year, I have some anxiety about how I will get on. But suspect, as with last year, those feelings will evaporate once underway.
Now be ready to read on.
On Thursday, 5 May 2016 I was on day 30 of my walking trip from Le Puy-en-Velay, France and had completed 808 km on arrival at Zalbadika, a small village about 15 km before Pamplona (both in Spain).
Later that day I negotiated the short but steep descent from Alto-del-Perdon towards Uterga, where I stayed the night. The next day, Friday, a severe pain developed in my right thigh. I struggled on to Estella-Lizarra to stay at the parish albergue, still managing to complete 30 km.
On Saturday, on the suggestion of the Brazilian hospitalero, I bused to Logrono, trained to Barcelona, stayed three nights and visit three major buildings designed by Anton Gaudi, returned to Logrono where I stayed the night. On Wednesday walked to Ventosa and Thursday to Najera, both quite short distances with continuing discomfort. Started walking on Friday and soon noticed my rain poncho was missing. Back to Najera to bus to Burgos. Here I got a rain coat and stayed the night in the quite new municipal albergue.
On Saturday morning I was first out of Burgos, but soon overtaken and stop after 10 km. On Sunday I continue 20 km to Hontanas but with much pain towards the end. The next morning I cannot stand except with support and an ambulance is called: I am very emotional when I sit down in the ambulance. Desultory attendance at the large hospital back in Burgos (I feel their diagnosis - osteo arthritis - is based on my age and not my story line). Monday through Friday nights in a 3 star hotel near Burgos city centre and keep bumping into walkers I had met in the past five weeks.
On Saturday, 28 May 2016, I fly to London to stay with my eldest son and his family. The NHS takes a lot of x-rays and the verdict is NOT osteo arthritis, so find an osteopath to manipulate the bones and muscles. The immediate relief is great but still requires exercises to complete the recovery.
During June I do a number of day trips including sections of Thames path centred on Staines, at the western edge of London and near the circular M25.
On Saturday, 25 June 2016, I began Thames Path from the source taking nine days to reach Windsor (the section to Staines I had already completed). In July do more one day sections with my sister-in-law, reaching from Richmond to Vauxhall Station (Waterloo Station was next). I finish Thames Path by starting at Woolwich on a Saturday and walk up stream to Waterloo Station on the Monday. On the Sunday I complete my very long term desire of visiting all mainline railway stations by going to Fenchurch Street and Liverpool Street.
In early August I start out from Southwark Cathedral (close to the modern Globe Theatre and London Bridge) on the south (right) bank of the Thames heading towards Canterbury Cathedral via Rochester Cathedral taking the North Downs Way. On this trip, as on the rural part of Thames Path, my lightweight tent is in frequent use.
As well as walking I do many trips into central London with my 7 year old grandson or by myself. And during term time usually walk with him the 2 km to and from school.
I return home, as scheduled, early September 2016 having been away almost five months. And by now pulled muscles in my right thigh are fully recovered.
From September 2016 to September 2017 I keep up my training walks, review my gear and decide to return in October 2017 to restart from my effective stopping point on Friday, 6 May 2016 of Estella-Lizarra.
I post this a few days before I leave home. My 2017 outward journey is:
1) Depart Wellington 21h15, Sunday, 1 Oct to arrive Heathrow T2 at 15h40, Monday, 2 Oct;
2) Meal with whanau at Heathrow T5 and depart 19h20 to arrive Madrid T4 at 22h45;
3) Depart Madrid T4 bus stop at 01h15, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Logrono at 05h00;
4) Depart Logrono at 07h45, Tuesday, 3 Oct to arrive Estella-Lizarra at 08h49.
Immediate business at Estella is to:
a) get a sello (rubber stamp) in my pilgrim credntial (passport);
b) get a sim card with voice and data for Spain and the rest of Europe (including UK);
c) get a fizz bottle to use with my drinking tube and mouth piece;
d) get going towards the wine fountain 3km down the road and beyond.
My pack and sleeping bag (courtesy zPack), android tablet (Samsung), collapsible porridge bowl (Kathmandu), tops (merino) and shoes (New Balance 860, but latest model) are unchanged. From Estella I will have my 2 person tent (zPack - used for Thames Path and Southwark to Canterbury in 2016), both in case of need in Spain and because of the two trips I currently intend to do in Scotland after arrival at Muxia / Fisterra. All other detail is new. Total weight, including water, tablet (with keyboard and cover) is about 8.5 kg and is what I have carried in my training trips this year.
As with last year, I have some anxiety about how I will get on. But suspect, as with last year, those feelings will evaporate once underway.
Now be ready to read on.
day 31 – draft Friday, 6 May 2016 Uterga to Estella / Lizarra
day 31
– draft
Friday,
6 May 2016
Uterga
to Estella / Lizarra
30 km
today - 115 km on Camino Frances - 848
km to date
Up
with the early mob, breakfast and get going.
Today I have a small 5 km diversion to a unique octagonal chapel at the
locality of Eunate dedicated to Santa Maria.
As I approach the chapel a worrying pain develops at the top of my right
leg. I immediately blame the huge
strides I was taking yesterday coming down the Sierra del Perdon. The chapel looks just like the online photos
and is open at the weekend. I decide not
to wait.
Obanos
is about 5 km away and I do the best I can to get there. At the approach I am struck by the design of
the church tower: it looks decidedly English in style, upright, square and with
higher stone work (pinnacles) in each corner.
Another town with nothing apparently open and I move quickly towards
Puente la Reina. A nice busy town and I
stop to say the morning office in an open church. There is a grand bridge on the way out of
town.
I stay
on the way until Maneru where I take morning tea then take the road to
Cirauqui. Back to the way for the Roman
bridge but soon wish I hadn't. The
descent through the ruins is extremely challenging (because of the pain in my
right hip) as is the climb back up to the way.
Fortunately, the road adjoins the way at this point and I move on to
it. This relatively major road is wide,
flat across its width with good wide shoulders and nice gradients, and little
used. It is grand to walk along.
A few
km before Lizarra the discomfort level is too high and I hitch. My driver knows exactly where the parish albergue
is and takes me directly there. Here I
meet Juan Carlos, a volunteer hospitalero
from Brazil. He takes an interest in my
condition and quickly commends me to bus forward to Logrono and from there go
to my intended break at Barcelona.
I go
and get some food to cook for dinner.
And so
to bed.
day 30 – draft Thursday, 5 May 2016 Zabaldika to Uterga
day 30
– draft
Thursday,
5 May 2016
Zabaldika
to Uterga
24 km
today - 86 km on Camino Frances - 808 km to date
Up
with the early group, who leave just after 6h30. I get a comfy spot and recreate a missed
blog, review others, uploading as I go, then send an advisory email to
all. With breakfast, another chat to
Amanda, photos with many, including the staff, I leave just after 8h30. The suburban areas of Trinidad de Arre and
Villava are encountered. Once I cross
the Arga River there is a long but delightful stroll through Villava: nice wide
tree lined streets, good looking apartment blocks and long bendy busses and
arrows in the way at very regular intervals, even when crossing a road.
Then I
get a glimpse of Pamplona's Cathedral up high on the edge of a cliff. Cross the River Arga by a medieval bridge,
climb a road through the ancient walls and fortifications and enter into a
modern medieval town. It is clear this
is a pedestrian precinct where cars and smaller delivery vans coexist on a
mutual footing: it just feels great.
Modern in the sense most five storey (or so) buildings in an area
roughly a kilometre square appear to have been built in the last 30 to 40
years. Medieval in the sense street
layout seems preserved: some are in more or less straight lines, some slightly
wavy and some in gentle curves.
I meet
a middle aged woman, whom I had seen on and off over recent days, who goes home
today. I learn she started at Le Puy
five days after me. She says she will
return to Pamplona next year and continue to Compostella. I congratulate her on such a fast trip and we
part. At the Tourism Office I meet
Santosh from India, now living in Ohio and Stephanie from Milwaukee. I get connected to Orange's Spanish network
for text messages and data. Then to the
cathedral where I say the Morning office to learn it is Thursday and Ascension
Day. The structure itself is quietly
straightforward with the ceiling bosses decorated. There are pews down the centre of the nave
then wide side aisles with chapels beyond that again. In all those I look at there is a retable on
the wall behind the altar: these typically have three or four rows with five panels
in each row. Each panel shows, often in
relief carvings highly decorated, a biblical scene, a biblical character or a
saint. These retable, very common in
Spain I discover, serve a similar purpose to the highly decorated tympani I
have seen in surrounding a major entrance in abbeys etc in France and Italy.
On
leaving, I grab some fruit, cheese and a drink for lunch today and tomorrow
from a .shop in a modern building in the old town. After leaving the original town I am in a
modern scene of wide straight streets and modern buildings, stopping in a
botanical gardens for lunch. Crossing
over an arterial ring road, a single line railway and a motorway, I pull up
into Cizur Menor. First encounter is
with a chapel that is all that remains of a hospital established by the Knights
of Saint John of Malta many, many years ago. On the outskirts of Cizur Menor I stop to try
my luck taking photos of the windmills along the ridge line of the Sierra del
Perdon range: the Camino climbs up from here and down the other side: a young
male walker comes across and offers to take one with me and the range
behind. We get to talk: he is Dan from
Chicago. He also struggles with being
east and south from here, or any other geographical hints as to where my home
country is. We part about 14h40.
The
pull up from Cizur Menor is strenuous in the heat of the afternoon and I stop
near a cemetery just before the village of Zariquiequi for porridge, orange,
banana and water. As I enter the village,
the two that had vigorously applauded as I entered Larrsoana the day before are
ensconced outside the bar. They, and
others with them, applaud vigorously as I stride past. I had thought of stopping here but the
reception, though well meant, serves to hasten me on.
I
continue up to where the way crests the Sierra del Perdon, festooned with
silhouette figures cut from sheet steel.
Here I take some photos and carry on.
It is now about 16th and I am a little anxious about a bed for the
night. Uterga is about 3 km away down an
infamous steep pathway. My pocket book
lists one albergue in Uterga with 16 beds and six people passed me as I took
photos. The next albergue listed in the
pocket book is another 11 km on. I start
the descent gingerly as it is both steep and covered with loose pebbles. Then I notice “streams” of slightly clearer
ground and follow those at a better rate.
Then comes the obstacle course, a flight of “steps” formed by large
squared off logs (like original railway sleepers, only bigger) with a high but
manageable drop to the next step. Using
my walking pole to steady myself I try several and it works so I go down in
grand style. Then more streams through
the loose pebbles and Uterga with two albergue opposite one another to choose
from. The one I choose has 22 beds alone. And even several hours after I arrive is still
accepting walkers.
Wash
clothes and have a meal.
And so
to bed.
day 29 – draft Wednesday, 4 May 2016 Roncesvalles / Orreaga to Zabaldika
day 29 – draft
Wednesday, 4 May 2016
Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga to Zabaldika
37 km today - 61 km on Camino Frances - 784 km to date
Wednesday, 4 May 2016
Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga to Zabaldika
37 km today - 61 km on Camino Frances - 784 km to date
In the breakfast queue meet two Kiwis: from Rotorua and
Christchurch. On the road before 08h.
This is pleasant country to walk through. The day is clear and not too warm, after all
we are about 1000 metres (over 3,000 feet) above sea level. Lots of ups and downs, and generally good
pathways under foot.
The village of Zubiri is about 21 km from Orr Eagan so I cross the
bridge away from the path to have a look.
The only cafe I can see is teeming with people and I decide to move
on. Larrasoana is another 6 km and I
arrive here about midday. Not a soul in
sight and nothing open. I find a seat in
the square and eat porridge I had prepared two days ago and fruit bought two
days ago. The path now comprises stones
and some mud, so move to the road as soon as I can. And this is pleasant.
My intention of Zabaldika arrives and I ascend to the village. This is a parish albergue and is very neat
and tidy. It backs on to the 16th
century church. There is also a
community of three religious sisters of the Sacred Heart. Os comes to greet each one of us: on hearing
I am from Wellington in New Zealand she tells me they have a house there. About 18h there is a ritual of greeting,
explanation of the church and stamps in our pilgrim passports. Communal dinner is about 7 pm and, back in
the church, a shortened night prayer with individuals sharing why they are on
this pilgrimage. The sister what had
greeted us is leading and she had warned me beforehand that she would ask me
first. So I tell them about Cathy.
And so to bed.
And so to bed.
day 28 – draft Tuesday, 3 May 2016 Saint-Jean-pied-de-port to Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga
day 28 – draft
Tuesday, 3 May 2016
Saint-Jean-pied-de-port to Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga
24 km today - 24 km on Camino Frances - 747 km to date
Tuesday, 3 May 2016
Saint-Jean-pied-de-port to Roncevaux / Roncesvalles / Orreaga
24 km today - 24 km on Camino Frances - 747 km to date
Breakfast is do it yourself from when you get up, and I am up just after 6h and ready to go just before 7h.
The first 15 km is one long rise from 200 metres above sea level (asl) to over 1300 metres asl. While an average of about 8 metres rise for every 100 metres walked the reality is long sections of more than 10 metres rise for every 100 metres walked. In other words very, very, very steep. In my training I had not encountered such steepness and not over such a prolonged distance. The early parts are good and I stride away, my general fitness from lots of training plus four weeks on the road helps a lot.
As we get to the steep sections I develop a technique of taking very short steps and timing my breathing to each step, in on the left foot going down and out on the right. Despite the short step, I find I am passing everyone. A pause after 8 km at a refuge to check the weather: all good, no snow and no rain. At this point we are in fog and my informant doesn't mention wind. The fog thickens and a strong wind gets up. Keeping an eye on the markers does worry me, especially since at times I cannot see anyone else.
A sign announces the last French stamp for the walkers credential and soon I see a crowd of about 20 or more walkers hovering around a stall selling bananas and stuff. I pause for a few moments but the wind bites me and I move on. About this point we leave the road and negotiate what seems like an obstacle course with every natural blockage I've encountered so far all assembled in one place. Plus fog and strong wind.
I can see about 20 to 100 metres either side or in front. As best I can, I try to keep others in sight. Sometimes this is only one person. But she seems confident of where she is, so I keep as calm as I can. I notice there are trees at this height (about 4000 metres above sea level) and that they are just beginning to bud. This is slow compared with the spring growth I have encountered elsewhere from day 1.
After what seems like an eternity of this I encounter the Col de Lepoeder, the pass through the Pyrenees route we are on. Apart from relatively pristine snow on the ground, which we also have to go through, albeit for only a few metres, there is nothing to see except the ground sloping away quite quickly. What an anti-climax.
Shortly afterwards there is a decision to be made. At the Pilgrims Office in Saint-Jean we were strenuously warned to take the road route down and under no circumstances go down through the forest. The difficulty is this: the forest route is the only one marked and there is no indication where the road we are on will lead to. So, the group I am with all decide to go down through the forest. We knew it would be steep, and it is. The difficulty is in the early stages and quite quickly it becomes quite pleasant.
I reach Roncesvalles about 12h30, nearly two hours sooner than the suggested time.
After some reflection I decide to stay here tonight.
Mass is at 19h and it seems nearly all the 200 or so walkers are there. Rather than come forward, as the five of us did at Saint Jean, the pilgrims blessing includes a recital of the countries the walkers are from. I don't hear New Zealand (or a variant) and nor do the other handful of New Zealanders present.
Then to dinner: I and a woman from Virginia, United States get to talking and have to break the curfew of 22nd.
And so to (my own) bed.
20 May 2016
A reflection - why am I doing this
In the week after leaving Le-Puy-en-Velay (in central southern France) and the emotions I felt as I was about to leave the Cathedral after the pilgrims Mass, I often reflected on why was I here.
I knew the mechanical bits off pat. Following her last diagnosis in January 2012 Ibegan walking to help with a (over) weight issue. Then , as Cathy and I talked about what I would do when she was no longer with me , she suggested my doing a full pilgrimage to add to the short one I had done in 2010.
The training walks now had an edge to them as I trialled equipment and trained my head as much as my body. Kath Rushton (completed a pilgrimage across Northern Spain in 2011) observed several times that my pilgrimage would be the most planned ever .
Cathy died (very peacefully) in November 2014 and in early 2015 neighbours began asking when I would do my walk, as they had noticed my coming back after a training walk. But 2015 was to settle Cathy's affairs and for me to settle my route. With the support of my co-executor (Tony, one of Cathy's nephews) we reached practical completion of the former) by mid-year.
About the same time I considered starting from Le Puy through the blog created by Margaret Riordan, a friend of one of Cathy's friends, Trish Harris. In September I met Margaret and her observations made me decide to start from there.
Shortly before I left a neighbour and priest, John Carden observed I was setting out on a great adventure. While agreeing with him in general terms, I have found in so many different ways just how big an adventure this is.
That is all the how, which, what, where and when stuff.
As part of our preparation Cathy wrote me a note asking that her body be cremated and for her ashes to stay with me. I told I would take a small amount with me . And at the pilgrims Mass at Le Puy I held those in my hand throughout.
In the days following I have been conscious of the purpose of my pilgrimage and continually hope and pray my body and my head will continue to have the strength to fulfill our purpose.
In the week after leaving Le-Puy-en-Velay (in central southern France) and the emotions I felt as I was about to leave the Cathedral after the pilgrims Mass, I often reflected on why was I here.
I knew the mechanical bits off pat. Following her last diagnosis in January 2012 Ibegan walking to help with a (over) weight issue. Then , as Cathy and I talked about what I would do when she was no longer with me , she suggested my doing a full pilgrimage to add to the short one I had done in 2010.
The training walks now had an edge to them as I trialled equipment and trained my head as much as my body. Kath Rushton (completed a pilgrimage across Northern Spain in 2011) observed several times that my pilgrimage would be the most planned ever .
Cathy died (very peacefully) in November 2014 and in early 2015 neighbours began asking when I would do my walk, as they had noticed my coming back after a training walk. But 2015 was to settle Cathy's affairs and for me to settle my route. With the support of my co-executor (Tony, one of Cathy's nephews) we reached practical completion of the former) by mid-year.
About the same time I considered starting from Le Puy through the blog created by Margaret Riordan, a friend of one of Cathy's friends, Trish Harris. In September I met Margaret and her observations made me decide to start from there.
Shortly before I left a neighbour and priest, John Carden observed I was setting out on a great adventure. While agreeing with him in general terms, I have found in so many different ways just how big an adventure this is.
That is all the how, which, what, where and when stuff.
As part of our preparation Cathy wrote me a note asking that her body be cremated and for her ashes to stay with me. I told I would take a small amount with me . And at the pilgrims Mass at Le Puy I held those in my hand throughout.
In the days following I have been conscious of the purpose of my pilgrimage and continually hope and pray my body and my head will continue to have the strength to fulfill our purpose.
12 May 2016
day 27 – draft
Monday, 2 May 2016
Uhart-Mixte to Saint-Jean-pied-de-port
24 km today - 733 km to date
Isabella, my hostess at the gite named 'Lescargot says because of the big trucks I should not walk on the road that passes through the village. She is so nice about it I take her advice traffic. She shows me to the local track that will get me on the GR65 and gives me a French kiss farewell.
This track is nice and steep and sealed and I make good progress. There are wonderful vistas. I arrive at Ostabat and pause for coffee, having said the morning office in the open church. Back on the road and pass several dairy farms, at least thats what they look like, but I cannot see a milking shed. The area looks prosperous with nearly all houses looking neat and tidy with the customary shutters painted deep red or light blue.
When I can get back on the main road. By now it is straight with a wide space between the white line and the edge of the seal. Encounter the village of Gamarthe and as I need a loo stop pause at the large restaurant busy setting up for the lunch trade for a
coffee. A short distance on there is a cheese factory with a tasting room and which should be open. While the lights are on there is no sign of life inside and the door doesn't open. I am not the only one disappointed.
Back on the road for another 3 or 4 km when a car pulls up at an intersection about 100 metres ahead and a man starts walking towards me. When we close up I recognise Jack from my second night with Anne at Moissac He has suffered an injury that prevents him from continuing and his wife has acted as salvor. In the chat I cadge a ride to Saint-Jean. On the home stretch the car stops again as Jack has seen Serge and Michel as he had also encountered them on the way.
The arrival at aSaint-Jean is in grand style. And I am amazed / astonished by the hordes of people thronging not only the cobbled street through the original town but also the restaurants on the outskirts. The parish gite that Isabella had rung ahead for me that morning doesn't open for a while and nor does the Pilgrims Office. I take the time to visit the church and the start point for the next morning.
Jan from Holland is very helpful at the Pilgrims Office and I weigh my pack - 8kg. So it is more than 1 kg over my target weight. Nothing too serious but I need to take the opportunity to do something about it.
The gite is good and dinner is at 2015 so pilgrims can go to Mass and the pilgrims blessing at 19h30. There are about 20 present, of which five come forward for the blessing.
Dinner is good with two from Croatia who speak English.
And so to bed.
Monday, 2 May 2016
Uhart-Mixte to Saint-Jean-pied-de-port
24 km today - 733 km to date
Isabella, my hostess at the gite named 'Lescargot says because of the big trucks I should not walk on the road that passes through the village. She is so nice about it I take her advice traffic. She shows me to the local track that will get me on the GR65 and gives me a French kiss farewell.
This track is nice and steep and sealed and I make good progress. There are wonderful vistas. I arrive at Ostabat and pause for coffee, having said the morning office in the open church. Back on the road and pass several dairy farms, at least thats what they look like, but I cannot see a milking shed. The area looks prosperous with nearly all houses looking neat and tidy with the customary shutters painted deep red or light blue.
When I can get back on the main road. By now it is straight with a wide space between the white line and the edge of the seal. Encounter the village of Gamarthe and as I need a loo stop pause at the large restaurant busy setting up for the lunch trade for a
coffee. A short distance on there is a cheese factory with a tasting room and which should be open. While the lights are on there is no sign of life inside and the door doesn't open. I am not the only one disappointed.
Back on the road for another 3 or 4 km when a car pulls up at an intersection about 100 metres ahead and a man starts walking towards me. When we close up I recognise Jack from my second night with Anne at Moissac He has suffered an injury that prevents him from continuing and his wife has acted as salvor. In the chat I cadge a ride to Saint-Jean. On the home stretch the car stops again as Jack has seen Serge and Michel as he had also encountered them on the way.
The arrival at aSaint-Jean is in grand style. And I am amazed / astonished by the hordes of people thronging not only the cobbled street through the original town but also the restaurants on the outskirts. The parish gite that Isabella had rung ahead for me that morning doesn't open for a while and nor does the Pilgrims Office. I take the time to visit the church and the start point for the next morning.
Jan from Holland is very helpful at the Pilgrims Office and I weigh my pack - 8kg. So it is more than 1 kg over my target weight. Nothing too serious but I need to take the opportunity to do something about it.
The gite is good and dinner is at 2015 so pilgrims can go to Mass and the pilgrims blessing at 19h30. There are about 20 present, of which five come forward for the blessing.
Dinner is good with two from Croatia who speak English.
And so to bed.
day 26 – draft
Sunday, 1 May 2016
Navarrenx to Uhart-Mixte
29 km today - 713 km to date
At breakfast I meet a couple who arrived yesterday from Lourdes. They are spending a week going the other way. Their first two days will be about 15 km each.
And I encounter Marlene again. As her intentions for the day don't match mine and as she is stopping at Saint-Jean we farewell one another.
I make slow progress to Aroue, about 18 km from Navarrenx. All the churches I pass are locked. Even at Aroue, despite the Angelus bell ringing the customary pattern at midday this church is also locked.
I catch up with the GR65 pathway near Olhaiby Chapel. The way goes through remarkable changeable country. At ons point I encounter a mob of about 100 sheep, both rams and ewes. They look as though they have been recently shorn but seem very light weight although bigger than lambs would be at two or three months. They are curious about me and turn to face me as I approach, and even push forward a bit. I take my leave and continue up the hill. At the top I encounter a mob of sheep in a paddock and I stop to observe them. They have some wool but it seems to stop naturally halfway down their sides. Again, as soon as they notice me they saunter down to the fence line, curious as were the others.
Time is marching on and I check where I am: I am not on the GR65. Using the marvellous feature of my offline mapping app, I make my way towards where I want to be, Ostabat. All up I have walked more km today than indicated.
There are two of us in the gite tonight. Christian is from near Nuremberg in Germany. He has cycled from his home and by the next night expects to be in Pamplona, about 120 km away.
And so to bed.
Sunday, 1 May 2016
Navarrenx to Uhart-Mixte
29 km today - 713 km to date
At breakfast I meet a couple who arrived yesterday from Lourdes. They are spending a week going the other way. Their first two days will be about 15 km each.
And I encounter Marlene again. As her intentions for the day don't match mine and as she is stopping at Saint-Jean we farewell one another.
I make slow progress to Aroue, about 18 km from Navarrenx. All the churches I pass are locked. Even at Aroue, despite the Angelus bell ringing the customary pattern at midday this church is also locked.
I catch up with the GR65 pathway near Olhaiby Chapel. The way goes through remarkable changeable country. At ons point I encounter a mob of about 100 sheep, both rams and ewes. They look as though they have been recently shorn but seem very light weight although bigger than lambs would be at two or three months. They are curious about me and turn to face me as I approach, and even push forward a bit. I take my leave and continue up the hill. At the top I encounter a mob of sheep in a paddock and I stop to observe them. They have some wool but it seems to stop naturally halfway down their sides. Again, as soon as they notice me they saunter down to the fence line, curious as were the others.
Time is marching on and I check where I am: I am not on the GR65. Using the marvellous feature of my offline mapping app, I make my way towards where I want to be, Ostabat. All up I have walked more km today than indicated.
There are two of us in the gite tonight. Christian is from near Nuremberg in Germany. He has cycled from his home and by the next night expects to be in Pamplona, about 120 km away.
And so to bed.
day 25 – draft
Saturday, 30 April 2016
Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx
29 km today - 677 km to date
Breakfast is do it yourself in the municipal gite. Yesterday had some views of the pyrenees: today there is none as it is a murky low cloud day. And shortly after I set off the rain sets in. I am on the road today and will be nowhere near the pathway. Then the wind picks up. I make my first way point in quite good time and so onto my stop for lunch, Mourenx. As I approach the town centre I pass an advertising hoarding for Renault cars offering a good pack(age) with some forwards either side of the car and a half-back offloading to another. Clearly I'm in rugby country.
Mourenx has an open market so most of my fruit lunch is quickly bought. Then for some coffee. While Mourenx has a town centre there is no real shopping that I can see.
I move on and after about 3 km both a strong wind quickly followed by heavy rain sets in. I am caught unaware and cannot deploy my poncho. Getting wet and cold is not my idea of an enjoyable time and I thumb for a ride. My luck is eventually in and a woman with a car that has seen better days stops. As soon as she understands where I am from she proceeds to do “the” haka while the car steers itself.
I arrive safely in Navarrenx and order the pilgrims meal at the restaurant I have been dropped outside.
Book myself in at the municipal gite and do not have an evening meal.
And so to bed.
Saturday, 30 April 2016
Arthez-de-Bearn to Navarrenx
29 km today - 677 km to date
Breakfast is do it yourself in the municipal gite. Yesterday had some views of the pyrenees: today there is none as it is a murky low cloud day. And shortly after I set off the rain sets in. I am on the road today and will be nowhere near the pathway. Then the wind picks up. I make my first way point in quite good time and so onto my stop for lunch, Mourenx. As I approach the town centre I pass an advertising hoarding for Renault cars offering a good pack(age) with some forwards either side of the car and a half-back offloading to another. Clearly I'm in rugby country.
Mourenx has an open market so most of my fruit lunch is quickly bought. Then for some coffee. While Mourenx has a town centre there is no real shopping that I can see.
I move on and after about 3 km both a strong wind quickly followed by heavy rain sets in. I am caught unaware and cannot deploy my poncho. Getting wet and cold is not my idea of an enjoyable time and I thumb for a ride. My luck is eventually in and a woman with a car that has seen better days stops. As soon as she understands where I am from she proceeds to do “the” haka while the car steers itself.
I arrive safely in Navarrenx and order the pilgrims meal at the restaurant I have been dropped outside.
Book myself in at the municipal gite and do not have an evening meal.
And so to bed.
day 24 – draft
Friday, 29 April 2016
Arzacq-Arraziguet (Arsac-Arrasigui) to Arthez-de-Bearn
28 km today - 648 km to date
Coffee in cups today. The gite has a school party staying as well.
I take the road all the way as I hear the pathway is still rocky and uneven.
I pause for a pleasant lunch at the newly built mairie (town offices) and near where a travelling circus looks as though it is about to set up. The rest of the day is uneventful.
Pull up the hill to Arthez to find the town strung along a ridge. Buy some paracetamol and some food to cook for dinner in the communal gite. Here I meet Gerhart (probably in his mid thirties) from near Nuremberg in upper Germany. He tells me he was four years a private in the German army where he met Edgar, his walking companion and a former general. Marlene is here (first met at Beduer over two weeks ago) as she was last night at Arzacq. Eating together is good.
During my walk about the town come to the town plaza with views west to the Pyrenees. I take photos but the distance and the cloud behind don't make good images. There's always tomorrow.
And so to bed.
Friday, 29 April 2016
Arzacq-Arraziguet (Arsac-Arrasigui) to Arthez-de-Bearn
28 km today - 648 km to date
Coffee in cups today. The gite has a school party staying as well.
I take the road all the way as I hear the pathway is still rocky and uneven.
I pause for a pleasant lunch at the newly built mairie (town offices) and near where a travelling circus looks as though it is about to set up. The rest of the day is uneventful.
Pull up the hill to Arthez to find the town strung along a ridge. Buy some paracetamol and some food to cook for dinner in the communal gite. Here I meet Gerhart (probably in his mid thirties) from near Nuremberg in upper Germany. He tells me he was four years a private in the German army where he met Edgar, his walking companion and a former general. Marlene is here (first met at Beduer over two weeks ago) as she was last night at Arzacq. Eating together is good.
During my walk about the town come to the town plaza with views west to the Pyrenees. I take photos but the distance and the cloud behind don't make good images. There's always tomorrow.
And so to bed.
day 23 – draft
Thursday, 28 April 2016
Aire-sur-'lAdour to Arzacq-Arraziguet (Arsac-Arrasigui)
34 km today - 620 km to date
Coffee in large bowls and other stuff for breakfast and off.
It is brilliant weather, but not too hot. I stay with the road again and shortly go around a marvellous bush with much under growth, almost New Zealand like except there is no variety of trees. After this through farmland (agriculture and not sheep and cattle) on farm tracks and service roads to Miramount-Sensacq. This village as with the towns of Gondrin several days ago is rugby country as I see posters for the Bearn regional final in the local stade in two days time. After saying the morning office in the neat and tidy church back on the road.
This is literally up hill and down dale with yet more dense bush: wonderful to behold. I pause at the top of one rise and find a quiet place to have a lie down.
With about 10 km to go I take the official way and it has a good surface. But about 3 km out the heat gets to me again and I get a ride to the towns edge. There is a municipal gite. It is new, clean and tidy and I am to be in the Australie set. Dinner is good.
And so to bed.
Thursday, 28 April 2016
Aire-sur-'lAdour to Arzacq-Arraziguet (Arsac-Arrasigui)
34 km today - 620 km to date
Coffee in large bowls and other stuff for breakfast and off.
It is brilliant weather, but not too hot. I stay with the road again and shortly go around a marvellous bush with much under growth, almost New Zealand like except there is no variety of trees. After this through farmland (agriculture and not sheep and cattle) on farm tracks and service roads to Miramount-Sensacq. This village as with the towns of Gondrin several days ago is rugby country as I see posters for the Bearn regional final in the local stade in two days time. After saying the morning office in the neat and tidy church back on the road.
This is literally up hill and down dale with yet more dense bush: wonderful to behold. I pause at the top of one rise and find a quiet place to have a lie down.
With about 10 km to go I take the official way and it has a good surface. But about 3 km out the heat gets to me again and I get a ride to the towns edge. There is a municipal gite. It is new, clean and tidy and I am to be in the Australie set. Dinner is good.
And so to bed.
day 22 – draft
Wednesday, 27 April 2016
Manciet to Aire-sur-'lAdour
38 km today - 584 km to date
Mathieu does a good breakfast and I am off as it is a long way today. I follow the road to Nogaro where I stop for coffee and look inside a well laid out church, then on.
Again I take the road as it is more direct than the official path and has more consistent surface and grades. I am conscious of my left leg foot and have tied the laces two holes down from the top.
Nothing of moment to see or stop for.
About 4 km from the target the heat of the day gets to me and I hitch a ride to the cathedral. After saying the evening office I decide to try a gite on the way out of town: it is no longer working so go further up the hill to the chapel of a seminary. Here I encounter Florian, the electronics engineer I met on the first day coming out of Le Puy.
The gite uses all of the large chapel. It is bigger than many parish churches and is a restoration project open to the public. The entrance lobby looks as though it was a vestry / sacristy while the bedroom on the opposite side may have had a similar purpose. It now has eight beds. Tonight we are seven men and one woman, all of mature years. Dinner is good but no conversation for me.
And so to bed.
Wednesday, 27 April 2016
Manciet to Aire-sur-'lAdour
38 km today - 584 km to date
Mathieu does a good breakfast and I am off as it is a long way today. I follow the road to Nogaro where I stop for coffee and look inside a well laid out church, then on.
Again I take the road as it is more direct than the official path and has more consistent surface and grades. I am conscious of my left leg foot and have tied the laces two holes down from the top.
Nothing of moment to see or stop for.
About 4 km from the target the heat of the day gets to me and I hitch a ride to the cathedral. After saying the evening office I decide to try a gite on the way out of town: it is no longer working so go further up the hill to the chapel of a seminary. Here I encounter Florian, the electronics engineer I met on the first day coming out of Le Puy.
The gite uses all of the large chapel. It is bigger than many parish churches and is a restoration project open to the public. The entrance lobby looks as though it was a vestry / sacristy while the bedroom on the opposite side may have had a similar purpose. It now has eight beds. Tonight we are seven men and one woman, all of mature years. Dinner is good but no conversation for me.
And so to bed.
07 May 2016
day 21 – draft
Tuesday, 26 April 2016
Eauze to Manciet - sort of
10 km today - 546 km to date
Farewell Mike as Marie-France has oferred to drive me to Manciet in the afternoon as she has business there. More ice, another walk around the town and an attempt at my daily blogs. Then off. By car.
The trip is not long by car and soon Marie-Frame, Mathieu and I are enjoying his hospitality at the gite I had booked into two nights before. With Marie-France's and my presence our explanation for my own non-appearance is quickly not an issue. I look around the village and find at least two groups playing petanque and beyond them something that looks like a bull ring but is far too small.
We each cook our own dinner and Mathieu provides a desert. in the chat I learn he had been a professional rugby player. An enjoyable evening.
And so to bed.
Tuesday, 26 April 2016
Eauze to Manciet - sort of
10 km today - 546 km to date
Farewell Mike as Marie-France has oferred to drive me to Manciet in the afternoon as she has business there. More ice, another walk around the town and an attempt at my daily blogs. Then off. By car.
The trip is not long by car and soon Marie-Frame, Mathieu and I are enjoying his hospitality at the gite I had booked into two nights before. With Marie-France's and my presence our explanation for my own non-appearance is quickly not an issue. I look around the village and find at least two groups playing petanque and beyond them something that looks like a bull ring but is far too small.
We each cook our own dinner and Mathieu provides a desert. in the chat I learn he had been a professional rugby player. An enjoyable evening.
And so to bed.
day 20 – draft
Monday, 25 April 2016 (ANZAC Day)
Eauze - at rest - sort of
00 km today - 536 km to date
Watched Serge and Michel get ready and go as I lazily go through breakfast. Get ready and go to the nearest doctor, who is just across the street. No receptionist and we informally organise who is next ourselves. Marie-France, the gite owner comes in to see me and she talks and I nod. My turn at last and I meet a very pleasant middle aged man. We converse as best we can: he examines me and I do my best to answer his questions. in the end he gives me a script for an anti-inflammatory and gives me a fulsome note of what I am to do, I pay him directly 23 Euro, get the mess for 2. 99 Euro and go back to the gite to place ice around the distracting area.
After a while of doing I that decide to look around Eauze. The biggest find is The Tresor of Eauze: a hoard of some 30,000 plus coins from when an area adjoining the present town had been a Roman city. It was estimated the value of the coins was enough to pay at least 100 farm labourers for a year. Not only coins but about 20 pieces of jewellery, most of which women of today would choose to wear.
Back to the gite and more ice and an attempt to write more daily blogs.
Just me and Christianne, from near Montreal, Quebec, for dinner, so English can be spoken. Mike, an American from Aransas, is cooking his own dinner but joins us for aperitif and desert.
And so to bed.
Monday, 25 April 2016 (ANZAC Day)
Eauze - at rest - sort of
00 km today - 536 km to date
Watched Serge and Michel get ready and go as I lazily go through breakfast. Get ready and go to the nearest doctor, who is just across the street. No receptionist and we informally organise who is next ourselves. Marie-France, the gite owner comes in to see me and she talks and I nod. My turn at last and I meet a very pleasant middle aged man. We converse as best we can: he examines me and I do my best to answer his questions. in the end he gives me a script for an anti-inflammatory and gives me a fulsome note of what I am to do, I pay him directly 23 Euro, get the mess for 2. 99 Euro and go back to the gite to place ice around the distracting area.
After a while of doing I that decide to look around Eauze. The biggest find is The Tresor of Eauze: a hoard of some 30,000 plus coins from when an area adjoining the present town had been a Roman city. It was estimated the value of the coins was enough to pay at least 100 farm labourers for a year. Not only coins but about 20 pieces of jewellery, most of which women of today would choose to wear.
Back to the gite and more ice and an attempt to write more daily blogs.
Just me and Christianne, from near Montreal, Quebec, for dinner, so English can be spoken. Mike, an American from Aransas, is cooking his own dinner but joins us for aperitif and desert.
And so to bed.
day 19 – draft
Sunday, 24 April 2016
Larressingle toManciet Eauze
28 km today - 536 km to date
This day starts well. No navigation issues. Cross the Pont d'Antigues and not much later notice a pathway crossing the road I am on. I check my offline map and see it is a named pathway and that it takes a series of gentle curves towards my next destination. And it is brilliant to walk on: it is level, sealed and passes through forest/bush and passes over or under all the next roads I meet. I find it was once a railway line.
I “alight” at the town of Gondrin where the church is locked but find an open air market underway so buy somke kiwi and banana. And notice Gondrin has a rugby team.
About this time I begin to feel pain at the front of my right leg, where it joins the foot. After about 5 km of the 20 km to Manciet the pain is too distracting. After a while I get a lift to Eauze. This is with a male driver and two women in their late 30s in the front of a people mover and two children and a small dog in the back. They are not totally familiar with gite arrangement in the town so the driver asks a conveniently nearby policeman who tells me to go to the Tourism Office. I get there to find they are closed on Sunday.I turn around to see my rescuers have parked close by, beside the central church. The driver helps me again by ringing the first gite that the guide says English is spoken, and takes me there. Now it is I find the owner does not speak English at all so we communicate by typing words into Google translate on my tablet. At last we agree I will stay two nights and get medical advice the next morning, Monday.
I go back to the church and find my rescuers just arriving as well : they offer me coffee and tell me they are a flutist, a soprano and an organist who also plays the harpsichord and they are putting on a concert that afternoon and will I come.
I do go and hear about a dozen items from almost as many composers from around the time of J S Bach.
Dnner is marvellous, cooked by mine host, Marie-France with two other walkers, Serge and Michel Louchard from Lille. Compared to other meals this is a tour de force and lasts for three hours. Fortunately for me, Serge has some English.
And so to bed.
Sunday, 24 April 2016
Larressingle to
28 km today - 536 km to date
This day starts well. No navigation issues. Cross the Pont d'Antigues and not much later notice a pathway crossing the road I am on. I check my offline map and see it is a named pathway and that it takes a series of gentle curves towards my next destination. And it is brilliant to walk on: it is level, sealed and passes through forest/bush and passes over or under all the next roads I meet. I find it was once a railway line.
I “alight” at the town of Gondrin where the church is locked but find an open air market underway so buy somke kiwi and banana. And notice Gondrin has a rugby team.
About this time I begin to feel pain at the front of my right leg, where it joins the foot. After about 5 km of the 20 km to Manciet the pain is too distracting. After a while I get a lift to Eauze. This is with a male driver and two women in their late 30s in the front of a people mover and two children and a small dog in the back. They are not totally familiar with gite arrangement in the town so the driver asks a conveniently nearby policeman who tells me to go to the Tourism Office. I get there to find they are closed on Sunday.I turn around to see my rescuers have parked close by, beside the central church. The driver helps me again by ringing the first gite that the guide says English is spoken, and takes me there. Now it is I find the owner does not speak English at all so we communicate by typing words into Google translate on my tablet. At last we agree I will stay two nights and get medical advice the next morning, Monday.
I go back to the church and find my rescuers just arriving as well : they offer me coffee and tell me they are a flutist, a soprano and an organist who also plays the harpsichord and they are putting on a concert that afternoon and will I come.
I do go and hear about a dozen items from almost as many composers from around the time of J S Bach.
Dnner is marvellous, cooked by mine host, Marie-France with two other walkers, Serge and Michel Louchard from Lille. Compared to other meals this is a tour de force and lasts for three hours. Fortunately for me, Serge has some English.
And so to bed.
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